• Bistro Nota & Scarpetta Wine Dinner: either you already know that there are remarkable things happening in the culinary scene in Fort Wayne or you’re wrong…

    Bistro Nota & Scarpetta Wine Dinner: either you already know that there are remarkable things happening in the culinary scene in Fort Wayne or you’re wrong…

    Three chefs. Five courses. Five wine pairings. One unforgettable evening. If you haven’t attended a wine dinner at Bistro Nota yet, then I guess I’m sorry that your life is so sad and empty. The food is always faultless, the atmosphere cozy, and the pours generous. Honestly, I live for wine dinners at Bistro Nota–because it’s always the best way to spend an evening. This most recent dinner featured Scarpetta wines. These are Italian wines crafted by Americans. Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey and former French Laundry Chef Lachlan Patterson teamed up to create Scarpetta in 2007: named for the little bit of bread that you use to sop up the last remaining sauce on your plate at the end of a meal. The wines they’ve produced are accessible–as appropriate for a celebration as they are for everyday drinking. Enjoyable on their own: but best enjoyed with good food, good friends, and good conversation. Bistro Nota is an ideal environment for enjoying wines like this. The cozy, warm, welcoming vibe that they cultivate–in addition to their meticulously, thoughtfully crafted cuisine–are the exact companions that wines like this need in order to be enjoyed as intended. All that’s missing from the equation is you and your nearest and dearest. So, bestie and I attended the wine dinner. We’ll spill the tea this time but really, next time, you better not miss it. I won’t repeat myself.

    The first plate of the evening was Spring Asparagus with crispy capocollo, celery root crumb, and lemon. This plate was vibrant and such a strong starting point for the meal. Earthy and verdant, but balanced beautifully with the crispy, salty capocollo and bright, acidic lemon.Though exceptionally exciting on its own–with its varied textures and bold flavors–paired with Scarpetta’s Prosecco, the dish truly sang. If you’re a Prosecco snob, skip this paragraph–or, maybe then again, don’t. This is DOC Prosecco that you can purchase for under $14. It’s like a square vs. rectangle thing. Expensive wine is good, but not all good wine has to be expensive. I mean this in the nicest way possible, this Prosecco is a little rockstar for being a cheap bottle of Prosecco. Uber floral on the nose and palette, with notes of melon and green apple–this dry bubbly is a good buy for all of your sparkling wine needs this summer. Whether porch sipping, pairing with pizza, or just popping a cork so your snacks won’t be lonely; consider Scarpetta’s Prosecco a solid option that won’t break the bank. This is an inoffensive Prosecco for Americans who like bubbly and aren’t snobbish about it. 

    The second plate of the evening was a Local Mushroom Tart: with buttery leeks, caramelized onions, melty gruyere, and creamy mornay. To balance this decadence, a small baby arugula salad. This tart was velvety. The flavors luxe; bordering on hedonistic. Would I call this tart sexy? Yes I would. The crust was more akin to buttery, soft bread than flaky pastry–but this was a necessary structural element to contain the absolute bacchanal of alliums, earthy mushrooms, and immorally cheesy goodness. Plus, the crust just tasted so damn good. Don’t change a thing. I’m in love and want seconds, please. While the arugula salad was heaven sent to lighten the decadence of the tart, the bunch of well-dressed peppery greens couldn’t hide how sinfully delicious the mushroom tart truly was. This plate paired with the Delle Venezie Pinot Grigio. Delightful notes of stone fruit, like peach and melon made this fuller bodied Pinot Grigio a really lovely sip. The high acid of this wine helped to cut through the intense, creamy, fattiness of the tart: because all good relationships are, after all, about balance. 

    Though difficult to choose a favorite plate of the evening, if I was held at gunpoint and panicking for an answer, I would probably say the Pan Roasted Salmon was my personal favorite. I keep going out to eat and falling in love with fish dishes. I don’t think it’s a ‘me’ problem, I think that fish is having a moment and chefs are giving it the princess treatment: ultimately exalting it and elevating it to its rightful place as the star of the show. This gorgeous pink salmon was served on a bed of spring pea-mascarpone risotto with prosciutto, Chef Butts’ famous morel mushrooms, and romesco sauce. I could eat this dish weekly and not get tired of it–especially when paired with Scarpetta’s Barbera del Monferatto. We love to see fish paired with red wine. Throw away the antiquated knowledge that your mommy may have passed down to you: seafood and red wine works when paired thoughtfully. This Barbera is intriguing, balancing earthy notes–like mushrooms–with red fruits and dark fruits. Notes of luscious, ripe berries and plums make this a juicy sip, while the earthy elements of terroir keep this wine interesting AF. The wine pairs beautifully with this vibrant, slightly spicy salmon because of its low tannin and high acid. This is another bottle I’d fully endorse picking up for your personal collection. It’s incredibly food friendly and, following a trend with Scarpetta wines, it won’t break the bank. If I get to have this salmon and wine combo just once more this summer, I’ll be a very happy girl.

    The final savory course of the evening was Beef Teres Majors: a familiar dish from Bistro Nota’s menu. However, the accoutrement that shared the plate with the beef fully transformed it from the menu item we all know and love into something even more special. An intensely crusted potato-eggplant rösti served as companion, as well as haricot verts, sauce bordelaise, and toasted garlic. To pair, the Colli Orientali del Friuli Cabernet Franc. Imagine tasting the Barbera from the last pairing and then saying, “Bet.” This Cab Franc is incredibly complex for a bottle that rocks in around the $20 mark. Notes of red fruit, like raspberry, are balanced with green bell pepper, and characteristics of oak like leather and clove. This wine is fruity, herbaceous, and subtly peppery. This is something I’d happily sip on its own: but it works nicely with food, too. 

    So, I know that I said the salmon was my favorite plate of the evening. But, what if I lied? Chef Cam crafted a Due Crema Cheesecake with burnt honey caramel and pine nut brittle. This thing rocked my fucking world. I’m a nice girl, but I’m also a bitch. I can be both at the same time: I checked the rule book and it’s allowed. I have strong opinions on cheesecake and one of those opinions is that most of the shit people serve up and refer to as “cheesecake” is actually just some garbage monstrosity of cheap cream cheese and too much sugar. People who make bad cheesecake should be ashamed of themselves. Also, they should stop. I don’t trust many people who say they’re going to serve me cheesecake. If someone says they’re going to give me a slice, my brain immediately wants me to ask, “Are you sure?” If it wasn’t purchased on Flatbush in Brooklyn, how do I know it’s good? Enter Chef Cam with the most divinely creamy, silky, stunning cheesecake I’ve ever enjoyed. Fuck Flatbush. Fort Wayne is now officially where you can find the ultimate cheesecake indulgence. What Chef Cam has crafted puts all other cheesecakes to shame: a cheesecake so creamy it’s almost otherworldly. Did Chef Cam really make this or was it crafted by the gods? I’m not necessarily buying that any mere mortal could create something so divine. To top, a burnt honey caramel. Now, honey is sweet by nature. Burnt things tend to go bitter. So, imagine that you’ve applied heat and caramelized some of the honey’s natural sugar to the point of burning: the end result is a complex, warm, sweet-bitter, ooey-gooey, sticky caramel. And then the man goes and adds pine nut brittle! Earthy, buttery, mildly sweet, perfectly crunchy: the pine nut brittle took an exceptional dessert and made it matchless. Can somebody please give Chef Cam an award or–at very least–a high five and a nice glass of wine? To pair with this masterpiece, the Spumante Brut Rose Timido: a gorgeous pink pour with notes of fresh flowers and strawberries. This is the bottle that you give to someone who you have a crush on. It tastes like young love and summer nights: nostalgic but new, all at once. I can’t imagine a more dreamy way to end an evening. 

    Alright, so, this is the point where I’m supposed to do the “talented writer” thing and tie the whole piece together with a neat bow. I ramble off some witty or poignant bullshit and try to convince whoever is reading that their life is damn near meaningless because they missed out on this wine dinner. If I’m doing my job right, the reader is left with a desire to book seats at the next wine dinner–to fill the empty space in their life and avoid impending FOMO. But, let’s just skip the song and dance this once–because, honestly, I’m a little tired of it. The wine dinners that Bistro Nota has been hosting are remarkable. If you are someone who values expertly prepared cuisine carefully and considerately paired with spesh wine, then you should have already attended one of these dinners. I shouldn’t have to rave on about it. Either you already know that there are remarkable things happening in the culinary scene in Fort Wayne or you’re wrong. Either you’re already eagerly waiting for Bistro Nota to announce their next wine dinner or you’re not the kind of person I’d want to spend an evening with, engaged in delightful conversation, over expertly prepared plates of food, and several glasses of wine. That’s fine if you’re not that kind of person. But, if you are that kind of person, and you want to fill your world with more like-minded people, you’ll always know where to find me. Bistro Nota has crafted a space for people like me. All I’ve ever needed is good company, good food, and good wine. What more could you possibly need?

  • Rune: perfection in the 07…

    Rune: perfection in the 07…

    Rune is the newest darling of the 07. Headed by local James Beard nominated Chef Sean Richardson: maybe you’ve attended, or at least heard of, the Rune pop-ups that he’s delighted Fort Wayne diners with over the last few years. Well, this is the brand new brick and mortar home for his sensational cuisine. With a focus on locally sourced ingredients, Chef Sean sees value in supporting local farms and crafting an ever-changing menu around whatever ingredients are seasonally available to us in the Hoosier state. (Because our local produce is just as good–if not better–than what’s available to larger cities with more renowned culinary scenes. Hyper local in NYC means something very different than it does in Fort Wayne, Indiana.) Rune even has a licensed forager on staff, literally scouring the fields and forests of Indiana to bring flavors to Rune that you won’t find on most menus. (How often are you dining on shagbark syrup and white pine, people?) 

    I was there for the opening night of Rune with one of my favorite dining companions: Fort Wayne famous egg-enthusiast and barista extraordinaire, who has literally never once missed a Rune dinner and has the stash of menus to prove it, the incomparable Volchy. He’s the best tour guide for new dining experiences in Fort Wayne; he knows everyone which means that he knows everything. Aside from being a wealth of knowledge, his palate is très bon. When we dine together, it’s always a happy time–and a yappy time. So, my dining companion and I arrived at Rune for our 5:30 reservation; the weather perfect, the sunshine radiant, and our bellies empty and eager. We were seated at the tiniest, cutest little two-top on this side of town and began our adventure as most good adventures shared by good friends begin–with wine. 

    The wine list is nothing short of impressive. There are lots of exciting things to sip at Rune. Presently, they have multiple bottles on the menu from producer Las Jaras. Out of California, if you watched Tim and Eric Awesome Show, Great Job! then you’re already familiar with one of the brains behind Las Jaras–Eric Wareheim. Though maybe best known amongst my generation for his comedy chops, there’s nothing funny about Las Jaras wines. Volchy and I sprung for a bottle of Superbloom. I’ve enjoyed this wine before and will always jump at the opportunity to revisit it. With a rainbow burst label reminiscent of Jenny Lewis in her Voyager era, this bottle is a stunner. Corked and sealed with pretty aqua blue wax, the small amount of sediment that remains in this natural wine creates galaxy swirls when poured. This sip is neon strawberry hued and tastes like red Jolly Ranchers and jalapeños with intense salinity. This will always be a favorite summer sip for me. Since today was the sunniest, warmest day we’ve had in quite awhile–the wine was a fitting choice to celebrate the pleasant weather. 

    When ordering, Rune requests that you order all food at once–they will take care of timing your meal out perfectly. Trust the process. They know what they’re doing. So, naturally, we ordered all of our plates at once. (When in Rune.) The first plates brought to us were the two appetizer-sized bites that we requested: the Rustic Chicken Liver Pâté and the Soft Boiled Eggs. When I attended the media cocktail hour for Rune, pre-official opening, the Chicken Liver Pâté was served. Volchy had even tried this nibble before at other previous Rune events. Though I’d just eaten it recently, I wanted to have it again. Honestly, I’d been craving it. I am a pâté girl. I love a good pâté and that’s precisely what they’re serving up at Rune. Think the most soft, luscious, flavorful chicken liver pâté you’ve ever enjoyed served with an array of pickles–from radishes to cornichon–a side of fresh sesame crackers for spreading, and a bed of house-made rosé mustard for extra awesomeness. This mustard is fire, y’all. Crafted with Big Salt Rosé, from producer Ovum out of the Willamette Valley, this is not the honey-mus you dip your chicken nuggies in–but in your wildest dreams you trade out your silly honey-mus for this rosé mustard and you live your best life. Of course, since I was dining with Volchy, there was simply no way we’d be skipping the Soft Boiled Eggs with mayo and fried kale because, well, eggs. The soft boil left the yolks jammy. The mayo coating this entire dish was luscious, rich, intensely creamy, and bordering on buttery. The fried kale was enough to make me feel like it was okay that I was taking forkfuls of eggs and mayo to the face–because there was a bit of leafy green to balance the bacchanal bites. I am not as much of an egg-enthusiast as Volchy is, but I did enjoy this nibble. It was odd because we both agreed that it left us feeling immediately very full–but with how Rune expertly paced our meal, we were ready to eat again by the time that the next plate arrived at our table.

    I insisted on ordering a pasta dish. Presently, there are two on the menu. Rune has a pasta extruder in the kitchen and is cranking out their own fresh noodles. This is exactly what I’ve wanted to see in the 07 neighborhood. I imagine I will be back often for wine and fresh pasta: especially if the pasta plate that I ate tonight is any indicator of the caliber of pasta dishes that we can expect Rune to crank out. The spaghetti and roasted peanut pesto is quite possibly one of the most impressive pasta dishes I’ve ever enjoyed–and it just happens to be vegan! The spaghetti noodles that they’re crafting are maybe just a smidge thicker than what you buy at the grocery store: but I am here for the added girth. The texture is, frankly, dreamy. I kind of hate to toss the word “perfect” around, but if the perfection fits, wear it. Al dente and optimally chewy, the noodles are tossed in a roasted peanut pesto. I won’t begin to pretend that I understand exactly what is in that sauce. It is lightly herby with a warm, round, earthy undertone provided by the roasted peanuts. I am fully obsessed with this dish. When it, eventually, leaves Rune’s menu–as all dishes at seasonally focused restaurants must–I will possibly cry. Rune is a restaurant where everything is good. No matter what you order, the food will be good. This pasta dish, however, is exceptional. 

    On to the Pork Chop with Sauce Robert and Polenta. This was Volchy’s pick. Are you surprised? If you’ve read even one or two of my other blogs, you probably already know–I am a red meat girl. I like steak. That’s not to say that I don’t like pork. It’s only to say that it probably wouldn’t be the thing that I’d choose when presented with multiple options. But this is why I so value dining with friends and sharing food. Friends will force you to break patterns. Friends will hold your hand as you venture outside of your comfort zone. Friends will order a dope pork chop and then let you enjoy it with them. If I say the pork was cooked expertly, who would be shocked? No one. This is Rune. We basically expect perfection when we know that the project is headed by James Beard nominated Chef Sean Richardson and his sous, the brilliantly talented–if you don’t know his name already, learn it–Kody Aswegan. So, naturally, the pork chop was superb. Topped with sauce Robert; for the uninformed, this is a French sauce composed of onions, mustard, and white wine simmered in demi-glace. As we know, there are five French mother sauces–and this ain’t one of them–but it is closely related to Espagnole sauce. The Americans should throw out their steak sauce, the Brits should throw out their HP sauce, and we should all spend more time dousing our food in sauce Robert–because it’s delicious. However, in this male-dominated world, I do find myself wondering who I have to blow to get a sauce named after me. I’m not above it. We all have to leave our legacy somehow. 

    We ended our meal on a sweet note. Right now, there are two dessert options–plus an array of after-dinner drinks, but I’m not going to delve into that at this time. For the media cocktail hour, I was able to sample the Carrot and Sweet Potato Tea Cake with Butterscotch and I loved it. Chef Sean has a reputation for producing good cakes and this is no exception. I want to eat this again. Hopefully soon. But, since I’d already had it, Volchy and I decided to sample the other dessert offering: a White Pine Pot de Crème with Shagbark Maple Syrup and Peanut Brittle. The tea cake is a safe offering. The Pot De Crème, full of foraged flavors, may seem like it’s only for the more adventurous eaters but–I’m telling you now–it’s an adventure worth taking. This dessert is ultra creamy and sweet without being cloying. The white pine notes are subtle: I promise, it doesn’t taste like you’re eating a Christmas tree, if that’s something you’re worried about. All of the flavors swirl and dance together in a dizzying waltz–turning this dish into a symphony of harmonious notes, rather than a fugue of fighting flavors. Everything plays together really nicely–whether the comfortable but complex shagbark maple, the earthy and crunchy peanut brittle, or the strong though unfamiliar herbal pine.

    The 07 isn’t a huge neighborhood, and it starts seeming even smaller when we talk about fine dining experiences. Bravas and Chance Bar basically have the market cornered, though Friendly Fox occasionally hosts wine dinners, and there is also our friendly Italian corner market, Antonuccio’s (I know they’re not on a corner, I said it for the wordplay, don’t DM me.) It’s also my neighborhood, so maybe I’m biased. If Rune wasn’t walking distance from my house, maybe I wouldn’t be as stoked as I am about their addition to our landscape. If the team wasn’t as innovative and brilliant as they all are, maybe I wouldn’t be singing their praises to you quite so emphatically in 12-point font. If the menu wasn’t locally-focused and delicious as it is, maybe I wouldn’t already be planning my next trip. But guess what: it is, they are, and I am.

  • Junk Ditch French Pairing Dinner: oh là là!

    Junk Ditch French Pairing Dinner: oh là là!

    I love French food. It’s special, bordering on magical. There’s something astonishing about simple ingredients transfigured to become greater than the sum of their parts through skillful technique. An ordinary chicken becomes extraordinary, elegant even, when prepared with French style. When it comes to la cuisine française, an emphasis is always placed on quality ingredients, fresh produce, and an abundance of herbs. Then, of course, there’s my personal holy trinity: bread, butter, and wine. I really do love it–maybe more than any other type of food. But, it’s not just me: culturally, we indisputably hold reverence for French cuisine. So often, when a new restaurant opens, you’ll hear the food described as a particular region’s cuisine but prepared with French technique–as if that somehow improves upon what a culture of people has already perfected over their history. Some may argue that this imperialistic approach to cuisine is because of racism. Some may argue that it’s because French techniques are so widely popularized in cooking schools that other cultures’ approaches to food are seldom, if ever, taught. While I’d love to delve into the dubious ethics of it all–now is not the place nor the time. Because, ultimately, even if our obsession with French technique is perhaps morally dubious, there’s no avoiding the obvious: the resulting food is fucking delicious. Do you know when I enjoy French technique the absolute most? When it’s applied to traditional French cuisine. Talk about right place right time. 

    While one of my biggest complaints upon moving to Fort Wayne was the lack of representation for traditional French bistro cuisine in the food scene, I’ve been presently surprised to see this gradually shift since my arrival. Most recently, I was completely spoiled by Junk Ditch Brewing, who opted to craft a French inspired menu as part of their Monday night tasting dinner series. These dinners absolutely never disappoint: so my hopes were sky high when I arrived for dinner with a small group of mes amis. As I write this, the moon is high in the cloudy sky, there’s still a black beret perched upon my head, and I’m spooning mouthfuls of warm leftover Pommes Aligot from a plastic pint. (Thank you, Chef Andrew, for the princess treatment–not just for me, but for the whole table. Aligot to go!) I’m painfully aware that sometimes things are sweeter in memory. However, I do believe that the reality of my meal this evening has not yet been colored with the passing of time–lightly warmed in the microwave, the Pommes Aligot remain divine still. Was this the best meal I’ve ever had at Junk Ditch? Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps.

    Our meal began with an amuse-bouche of mushroom gougères. For those unfamiliar, think of a savory cream puff. Instead of a fluffy, sweetened cream filling, the Pâte à Choux puff encapsulates a mushroom duxelles of sorts–still relatively creamy in texture, but supremely earthy instead of sweet. They were served up gorgeously piled on a long plank. There were enough that everyone at the table was able to enjoy two puffs: which is, frankly, more than generous for an amuse-bouche. This is a bite I will crave in the days to come–weeks, months, perhaps even for the rest of my life. When a meal starts on such a strong note, there’s a lot of pressure for the following dishes to not simply be equally stunning, but to surpass that first bite in deliciousness. Nobody can accuse the team at Junk Ditch of not knowing how to expertly craft a menu.

    Our first course was Lentil Soup with herb oil and thyme. Based only on the menu description, I think we all expected a chunky, lentil filled soup. What we received was a velvety, puréed soup drizzled with bright green herb oil and flecks of thyme. To pair, the Chateau Fage Blanc Bordeaux. This pairing was exceptional–and I honestly don’t think I’ve ever been so blown away by a wine and soup pairing. The bright citrus, pear, green apple, and honey notes of this wine balanced the herbaceous and earthy lentil soup. This felt like a love letter to French cuisine:  simple ingredients showing their true selves and blowing everyone away in so doing. The humble lentil finally had that moment from an early 2000s rom-com that we’ve all been waiting for; Junk Ditch took the lentil’s glasses off and–oh là là! Who knew the lentil could be so sexy?

    The salad course was, unsurprisingly, delicious. Endive and Radicchio Salad with Roquefort, ham, walnuts, and tarragon vinaigrette. There was also a citrus element–perhaps dried nectarine–I won’t pretend to know when I really have no clue. But, it added such a lovely, bright, acidity to the salad. I personally love balancing tarragon with citrus, like orange, so this was a welcome flavor profile. The earthy, buttery crunch of walnut. The salty bite of ham. The funky, creamy, decadent bursts of Roquefort. All flavors in bed and having a fun time with peppery arugula and just slightly bitter radicchio. To pair, a pale lemon sip of Roche Guilhem Jurançon Blanc Sec. This ultra silky wine gives off oodles of orchard fruits and made the salad course seriously dreamy. Give me a glass of this and I’ll always, happily, eat my vegetables. 

    I will say, unapologetically and emphatically, that the third course of the evening was my absolute favorite. While, perhaps, the most traditional in preparation–the Sole Meunière with brown butter, capers, Pommes Aligot, and parsley was a distillation of what makes French cuisine so intoxicatingly delectable. Perfectly flaky, tender fish in a sauce of nutty brown butter and salty capers sat upon a heaping bed of cheesy, creamy Pommes Aligot. For those not in the know, Pommes Aligot is somewhere between fondue and mashed potatoes. If that made you say, “Yuck,” I retract the statement and simplify my explanation to: they’re basically just the best cheesy mashed potatoes you’ve ever had. This is the plate that I want daily. This is the plate that I would never, ever tire of eating. It was nicely paired with the Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chardonnay. This Bourgogne white wine is an easy sip, with characteristics of oak and light, crisp notes of pear, green apple, and stone. While I loved the pairing: I would never sip a Chardonnay again if that was the price I had to pay for filling the rest of my days with Sole Meunière. I’m serious. This might be the biggest compliment I’ve ever paid anyone. 

    The next plate was Pork Pâté. I am a girl who unapologetically loves pâté. I just ate some two days ago. I have some in my refrigerator as I type this. I’ll probably be eating more pâté in the coming days. Genuinely, I can’t get enough of the stuff. If you give me some crackers, or toasty bread, and a bit of pâté: I will gaze at you lovingly like there’s no other person on this planet as gorgeous and special as you are. This plate was slightly unlike other pâtés that I have enjoyed. Served with cornichon, beets, mustard, and microgreens–the portion was hefty, the texture dense, and the flavor was bombastic. To pair, the Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Rouge. I believe this is a red blend composed of primarily Grenache; but don’t quote me. I like wine, but I’m no sommelier. And, ultimately, unless you’re a total wine snob you probably don’t care what grapes the wine was made with–you just want to know how it tastes. (I like that about you. No snobbery. Just brass tacks and wine love. Good for you.) Think black currant, plum, and a hint of licorice. Definitely not a heavy red or aggressively tannic. An enjoyable sip, for sure. 

    As if we weren’t already thoroughly well-fed and completely spoiled by our meal, the final savory plate of the evening was aged strip steak, parsnip purée, mushrooms, and bacon lardon. The aged strip steak was cooked to rosy pink perfection. So tender: no steak knife needed. The sauce served with it–which, to me, resembled a classic, French, red-wine-based Bordelaise–was heavenly. This all sat above a bed of surprisingly sweet, whipped parsnips. I enjoyed the contrast between the deep umami-rich mushroom caps, crisp bacon lardons, steak with decadent sauce and the creamy, slightly sweet parsnips. To pair, the Château Larose-Trintaudon Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. When somebody wants a big, bold French red wine–this is it, fam. Blackberry, cherry, leather, and spice: I would sip this again, happily, especially with a nice, aged strip steak. 

    For our dessert course, chocolate tart with raspberries, Chantilly cream, and a quenelle of lemon thyme sorbet upon a bed of oat crumble. This was, perhaps, one of the best desserts I’ve had in quite awhile. Especially after a multi-course meal of stunning quality, the dessert has to be really exceptional in order to be memorable. Simply being passable isn’t enough–if the dessert isn’t phenomenal, it pulls down the tone of the whole meal. This dessert did exactly what it needed to do and exalted all the remarkable plates that came before it. A crisp, butter tart shell encased a decadent, utterly luxurious chocolate filling. Upon the bed of chocolate, perfect ripe raspberries perched–dotting the circumference of the tart. The lemon thyme sorbet was exceptionally sharp, but was balanced by the oat crumble and served as a refreshing balance to the decadence of the chocolate and raspberry tart. Though, perhaps I’m an outlier, because I didn’t feel the tart needed to be balanced–I would take that chocolate tart to the face, fearlessly, without a glass of water. And I’d do it happily. Of course, I was spoiled and didn’t need to, because not only was there refreshing sorbet, but there was also wine to pair. With dessert, I enjoyed a glass of VillaViva Rosé Cotes De Thau. I’ve enjoyed this wine before–it’s an absolutely lovely little sip. Given the notes of strawberry and raspberry, I can see why it would make sense with this dessert course. It’s a pretty light wine, so I feel like the chocolate perhaps overpowered some of its more subtle nuance–but, that’s not to say that I didn’t enjoy the pairing. A chocolate raspberry tart, lemon thyme sorbet, and a glass of rosé–what’s not to enjoy? This is my idea of paradise.

    I was in love with French cuisine before I sat down at dinner. So, perhaps, I am biased. But seldom is a meal so good that the morning after, and even for days to follow, it lingers in my memory like a haunting refrain. Maybe it was the company. Maybe it was the wine. Maybe it was the Pommes Aligot. I’ll never know the exact moment that it occurred, but I can attest that my meal at Junk Ditch transformed my love for French food into something stronger. What’s stronger than love? If I say that the memory of this meal is something I will forever cherish: is my point clearly made? If I tell you that I am burning with a passion ignited anew for la cuisine française, will you understand? Apparently, sometimes it’s not just simple ingredients that are transformed in the culinary process. Sometimes, the experience is so entirely magical that the diner is transformed, too.

  • Dana’s: French inspired, Fort Wayne accessible…

    Dana’s: French inspired, Fort Wayne accessible…

    It was a Friday afternoon in Fort Wayne and I knew exactly what to order. Volchy scooped me up at my doorstep and ushered me downtown. We found parking faster than usual: because sometimes things just work out. With no reservation, we showed up at Dana’s mere minutes after opening. Still–it was far from a ghost town. Fort Wayne is big, but not that big, so word of this chic new spot has spread like wildfire. Despite the observed popularity of the newest restaurant to pop-up on The Landing, we scored a table–actually, a cozy little booth. I like the booths. When you go, you should sit at a booth. There’s something intimate about booths; especially black booths with curved backs.  

    I knew what I wanted to eat before I walked in the door; but it wasn’t any easy choice for me to make. Though I’d like to give the impression that I went into this dining experience with nerves steeled, mind thoroughly made up, and indecision conveniently left on my bedside table–I can’t lie to you. I felt a little uncertain with my choice to dine at Dana’s: new things can be scary for countless reasons. But the menu at Dana’s is seductive, to say the least. It’s a menu to be appreciated–clearly, a team of talented people has put in a lot of work to turn this dreamy vision into a reality. I can say with absolute confidence, there’s not a single dish on the menu that I wouldn’t try. Everything looks and sounds spectacular. Secondly, I think the menu has been more than fairly priced. Yes, even that $120 Côte de Boeuf is fairly priced and I can say that with unwavering certainty because–spoiler alert–it’s what I ordered. Bitch, it comes with tallow fries! They’ve even started serving up a simple, delicious, Champagne vinaigrette dressed salad as a precursor to the steak-show: because 40 minutes is not an inconsequential amount of time to wait for your dinner. (Though I assure you, time flies when you’re eating a scrummy salad.) I digress. A third point for why I’m enamored with the menu at Dana’s is there is no prescribed order. There’s no dictator denoting appetizers from entrees. There’s not even a guide for what’s a small plate or a large plate–and I’m so glad, because frankly, I much prefer when it’s all open for interpretation in the court of common opinion. Rather than tell you how to eat, Dana’s simply lists the food options available. Choose what you will. Eat what you like. Sate your personal level of hunger: because we’re not all built the same and a prescriptive menu, similarly to fast fashion, fits very few. 

    The wine list isn’t too shabby, either. Volchy turned me on to Carboniste wines after he spent a few days in Cincinnati and explored a Skurnik Wines Portfolio tasting. My personal prediction: this will be the hip bubbly of summer in Fort Wayne. Right now Dana’s is offering the Carboniste Pinot Grigio Pet Nat aka “The Mackerel.” Depending on its interaction with oxygen (as in how recently the bottle was opened) this wine can behave a little differently–or so I’m told. Even with this knowledge: I have no complaints, only raves. The color of my first pour was pretty fucking orange, my friends. (And so was my second pour. Yes, I liked it that much.) This low alcohol sip is giving citrus, she’s giving green fruit, she’s giving yeast, but remaining insanely fresh while she’s giving you an appropriate amount of fizz to the face. If I hadn’t just dropped a puke-inducing amount of money on required bottles of wine for my upcoming WSET class, I’d be purchasing several bottles from Carboniste, just for funs and summertime enjoyment. I’m telling you: Carboniste is going to be the cool kid sip this summer. (I mean, not for me. I’ll be pouring whatever is required of me for class…which is decidedly not a cool kid move. But, like, you should have fun.) Stock up while ya still can, dingus. 

    As for food, I had my sights set on Fried Olives. I would have also happily eaten Oysters, Steak Tartare, and Tallow Fries with dips–but I suppose this just gives me good reason to go back very soon. As for the Fried Olives: I want to know who gave Dana’s the right to put so many of my favorite things onto one plate and fuck with my feelings like they did. Your girl doesn’t just love an olive–she loves a warm olive, a stuffed olive, a fried olive. Have y’all ever had those fried olive bites that you can sometimes get in the frozen food section at Trader Joe’s? Dana’s basically looked at those and said, “Bet.” These olives are stuffed with spicy nduja for an appropriate kick. The little bites are breaded, fried, and served with a “gorgonzola anchovy sauce.” If that sounds like a total mindfuck, I get it and I can’t fault you. But, if you read those words and your first reaction is something like, “How can I get an IV drip of Gorgonzola Anchovy Sauce” then we can be best friends. If salty isn’t your thing, this dish ain’t for you. To be real, it’s salty as fuck–but I live for these flavors. I will absolutely order these again. Like, real soon–don’t you dare change them. 

    Volchy thought it would be a nice idea to try some Ratatouille–and he wasn’t wrong. If you’ve seen the iconic film, it’s basically just that. You’re Anton Ego. You take a bite of this beautifully plated, traditional French vegetable dish. You think of your mother. Suddenly, you’re a child. It’s summertime in France. All of the vegetables are fresh and pleasant. The aroma of sun dried herbs tickles your nose before their taste even has a chance to dance on your palate. You are comforted by the knowledge that someone cooked this for you with love: because you are loved. Everything is beautiful and nothing tastes like rats made it–because as much as I love Disney movies, rats probably shouldn’t be in professional kitchens. If that’s a hot take: sorry, I guess. You know those days when it’s so hot out that you almost don’t feel like eating food? Those days are coming. They’re creeping up on the horizon even now. The Ratatouille at Dana’s will be there for you. So fresh. Filling, but light. Exquisite. 

    Now the salad–which we did not order but were more than happy to receive. It’s a sort of “thank you for your patience while we cook your big-ass steak.” I am not one to tell you how to eat. You should eat as much or as little as you need to feel full. I am someone who can house a big steak pretty easily–no regrets. It is my personal opinion that, if you’re getting that humongous steak–which comes with fries and a salad–you probably don’t need other noms. Even split amongst two people, it’s quite a bit of food. Could I do it alone? Depends on the day, but generally speaking: solid maybe. That’s just me though. And, if you don’t intend to take home leftovers, hopefully you’ve entered the situation pretty famished. Now, all this is to say that, I am someone who loves a simple salad: and Dana’s is delivering here. At the time of writing this, the salad isn’t even on the menu. I think they’re just tossing it together for anyone who orders steak and, truly, it’s a boon for us steak eaters. Mixed greens, with olives, some herbs, and a bit of onion and shallot. I even found a clove or two of creamy garlic and a light sprinkling of green onion. The whole ordeal is topped with a snowfall of these uber flavorful, perfectly toasted breadcrumbs–maybe the best part of the whole thing. I am very much team breadcrumb over team crouton. I think there’s a time and place for croutons, but they’re widely overused and generally poorly executed; because who wants to break a tooth on weakly-flavored stale bread while trying to eat some healthy veg? It doesn’t matter–it’s not even a concern with this gorgeous salad. Brilliant ingredients are dressed in a bright Champagne vinaigrette. There’s some leftover salad in my fridge right now and I’m fighting the urge to go get it and finish it. It’s late in the evening. I don’t normally like to eat this late. Fuck it…I’m getting the salad. It’s so utterly delightful. Currently, there’s a wedge salad on the menu at Dana’s. We love to see it. But, hard truth, if they put this salad that accompanied the steak onto the menu as its own thing…I would order it consistently.

    Now for the steak: a masterpiece of epic proportions. A 42 day dry-aging process on a 32 ounce ribeye. The steak is cooked flawlessly, topped with a more-than-generous slab of compound butter (which, if I’m nitpicking, was perhaps significantly colder than it should have been: just respectful food for thought if anyone is looking for a way to improve upon perfection) and served up with a side of Béarnaise for dipping. The tallow fries that come with the steak are frankly mystifying to me. These hand cut fries are hefty and flavorful–they’re tossed in malt vinegar powder and served up with a sprig of rosemary. All of your senses are at play when enjoying these fries. Their exterior is ridiculously crisp while the interior remains fluffier than cumulonimbus clouds. If you just order the Tallow Fries alone, they come with three dips. The Tallow Fries that are served with the steak do not automagically come with three dips: but if you ask really, really, really nicely somebody might bring you the dips anyway. No promises. If you are someone living in or around Fort Wayne, Indiana and you happen to enjoy steak frites, you should not deprive yourself of this iteration. I can’t promise that you’ll find your absolute new favorite steak frites dinner–because everyone seems to hold strong personal opinions on this particular plate–but you will most certainly find a top contender. How you enjoy this Côte de Beouf is entirely up to you. It’s all about what you want out of the evening. Like I said earlier, this offering is absolutely sharable: though I still contend I could wreck this steak dinner alone, with the right attitude and a glass of Cabernet Franc.

    You already know what comes next. Do I even need to say it? Go to Dana’s. Choose literally anything off their menu; it’s dripping with wonderful options for carnivores, herbivores, and omnivores alike. Go there with friends or family or your mortal enemy if you’re trying to show them a good time for some reason–I won’t judge. If you’re feeling it, try the Pet Nat, it rules. Or don’t. There’s a whole list of wines, cocktails, and beers for you to explore. Do as I say, not as I do, except when I tell you to check out Dana’s–then do exactly as I say. If you see me there and notice a 32 oz dry aged steak coming to my table once I’ve wrecked the salad, don’t be surprised. Give a girl a big steak and a glass of Cab Franc and she can take on the world.

  • Venturi Pizza: pizza is the glue that temporarily holds a broken heart together…

    Venturi Pizza: pizza is the glue that temporarily holds a broken heart together…

    Some people love Valentine’s Day. They yearn all year long for the annual return of February 14th–bringing with it a storm of cheap chocolates and polyester rose petals. But when the corporate-constructed pink and red haze sets in on my city, something inside me screams to get out of dodge. So, I listen to that persistent voice in my head, I hop in my car, and I drive–but, to where? This animalistic urge to flee in the face of a romantic-storm, like wildlife instinctively scattering in the fragile moments before a tsunami reaps destruction, begs the question, “How far have you run to try to escape a broken heart?” Which, unfortunately, can only raise the followup question, “When did you learn that you can’t ever run away from yourself?” Everywhere you go–there you are. You’re the wildlife and the tsunami.

    Surely, we’ve all suffered our own small heartbreaks; it’s part of the human condition. But, the big heartbreaks–the real whoppers–the massive shatters, well, I don’t think all of us have suffered that misfortune. For the unlucky few who have genuinely had their heart mishandled, repeatedly drop-kicked, and stomped with big black combat boots: I’m sorry. I don’t think those truly significant breaks ever really repair–or cease. It doesn’t really get better; you just learn to live with it. Your heart is like a midwest highway constantly under construction. Demolished, then repaired to somebody’s definition of the word but not necessarily your own–only for it to begin again, with no ‘completion’ date for the unending project in sight. But just as spirits make themselves known in this mortal coil the closer we inch to October 31st, I think the scariest part of this holiday is how the eternal crumbling of a permanently broken heart grows louder and louder the closer we inch to February 14th. The sound of something fragile inside you, still going to pieces after all these years, will echo as you lie awake in bed at night–haunting you. Those of us afflicted, so stoic and strong 364 days out of the year, fall to bits when faced with Prix Fixe romantic dinners for two hosted at all of our favorite usual haunts. While we can’t outrun the sorrow or the echo of the everlasting obliteration of our fragile tickers, we can escape our status quo and run towards something necessary–though perhaps counterintuitive. At times like this, all we can do is run towards the closest thing we still have to that dirty four-lettered thing that fucked us over in the first place–love. 

    Don’t get it twisted, dear reader: I don’t mean that you should run back into the arms of your ex. (Darling, if there’s any day to let the battery on your phone die and go completely off grid, February 14th is it.) They say love comes in all types. These days, the only love I know is often round, though not always, and while I prefer it broken down into triangles–I won’t turn my nose up at it in any shape. Yes, pizza: “more reliable than any lover I have ever known.” Trusted, tried, and true–the only thing I want to spend my Valentine’s Day with. Pizza won’t ever break my heart.

    On February 14th, I found myself more than an hour away from my house. My urge to run away had driven me to Goshen, Indiana but my destination was much more specific than that. I was headed to Venturi: Indiana’s first certified Neapolitan Pizzeria. Venturi has been certified by the Vera Pizza Napoletana since 2011. For the uninitiated, the VPN is effectively an international non-profit organization whose sole purpose is recognizing the artisanship of true Neapolitan pizza, founded by a gang of Neapolitan pizzaiolis (or, pizza makers, for those who don’t enjoy doling out dope titles). In 1984, shortly after the non-profit was formed, it was deemed a “denomination of control,” or DOC, by the Italian government. In short, that means the Italian government recognized the organization’s authority on all things related to defining Neapolitan pizza. Venturi, in Goshen, holds the high regard of meeting these strict standards. Furthermore, it’s been named one of Esquire’s Top 15 most life-changing pizzas in the US. All I could think as I approached Venturi was, “I could really use a life-changing pizza right now.” 

    The atmosphere of Venturi is clean, bright, and transportative. Enter their doorway, and it’s suddenly debatable whether or not you’re still in Indiana. They offer respite from the doldrums of everyday life–the DOC qualifying pizza is just the cherry on top! But, before jumping into pizza, my ride-or-die adventure buddy and I each ordered a glass of wine. They opted for the Aglianico; a full bodied, fruit forward red wine sure to pair well with most pies on the menu. As for me, my heart was set on a glass–or two–of the Gragnano. In my mind, this wine is one of the most quintessential pizza sippers. If it’s not in your current rotation, seek out a bottle for your next pizza night! This red wine was just off-dry with effervescence that created a really gorgeous pink-hued mousse that briefly floated atop the wine only to soon ethereally vanish. 

    Our first bite? The Fougasse: because you don’t see this on every menu! Venturi serves these pull-apart style breadsticks with imported Italian tomatoes, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and oregano. Upon first bite, my initial reaction was, “Mmmmmm,” but my second reaction was, “This texture is everything I dreamed it would be and nothing like what I expected it to be.” I’m accustomed to being let down. I’m accustomed to having reality fall short of my hopes and dreams. Life often doesn’t live up to my expectations. But the Fougasse was perfection. You tear into it and the dough rips apart like clouds in the hands of angels. Yet, it retains the chew and relative density that you would expect from a really masterfully crafted dough. This is one of those foods where the past and the future simply melted away while I ate. There was only the present moment: me and the Fougasse. Flawless–I have no other words for this. It’s simply flawless. 

    As for pizzas, if you’re truly a smart cookie, you’ve probably pieced together that for the VPN to consider a pizza made in America a truly authentic, DOC qualifying, Neapolitan pizza–it must meet very strict standards. These standards are so stringent that most pizzas on the menu at Venturi don’t actually qualify. A true Neapolitan pizza doesn’t have a lot of extra toppings. If you want to throw on olives, mushrooms, or even pepperoni–you’re SOL, because your pizza is no longer going to meet DOC requirements. Venturi has three qualifying pizzas on the menu: for an American pizzeria, that’s honestly a lot and we should all be eternally grateful and ecstatic that we have access to those three DOC qualifying pizzas. If you go to Venturi solely to try a super authentic pizza with the DOC certification, your options are: Marinara, Margherita, or Margherita Extra. The Marinara has no cheese; just tomatoes, oregano, basil, and garlic. The Margherita should require no explanation, but in case your brain is still in bed, it’s just imported Italian tomatoes, Mozzarella, and basil. Basic stuff. Simple. Pure. Perfection. The Margherita Extra is essentially the same, but they give you a little extra of the house-made Mozzarella cheese on it–making this pie feel like the closest existing thing to a peace treaty between Midwest America and Naples, Italy. I got one DOC Certified pizza and one that wasn’t certified but was still properly delicious! Obviously, for my DOC pizza, I went for the Margherita. Your girl likes to keep things classy and classic. I have zero regrets about my pizza choice; which is more than I can say about most of the people I’ve dated.  

    So, given that Venturi prides themselves on keeping their pizzas pretty gosh darn authentic, you should anticipate that when your pizza arrives at your table it will not be cut into slices. That’s your job. Make like you’re in Naples, grab your fork and knife, and get to work. (They have a “Plan B” in back if there’s a problem–but we’re not going to have any problems with cutting our pizza. Are we, fam?) My Margherita pizza was gorgeous: a thin layer of bright red tomatoes, a generous yet limited distribution of melty house-made Mozzarella, and pops of green basil leaves bedecked a perfectly leopard-spotted round of dough. But that’s another thing about Venturi; these aren’t pizzas manufactured to corporate specifications and formed into a perfect circle every single time without fail. These are very much hand-crafted, artisan pizzas: size and shape may vary slightly. I think that’s one of the most beautiful things about these pizzas. Here I am going on and on about how it looked–when, really, how it tasted was the most impressive part of it. I have only three words to describe the flavor of the Margherita pizza: elegant, transcendent, pure. I offer no further explanation–you won’t understand unless you’ve tried it for yourself and, even then, maybe you won’t “get it.” But, for those of us who “get it,” there is no denying–this pizza is beyond measure. 

    I had a genuinely difficult time settling on a second pizza to try; as literally every menu item was appealing and there were at least six that sounded right up my alley. Ultimately, it was the Spicy Sopressa that caught my eye. (And maybe I ordered one of their current specials, a Black Garlic pizza, for the road–but that’s my damn business.) The Spicy Sopressa doesn’t qualify for the DOC Certification because it’s too extra. Topped with sopressa, Ricotta, and Kalamata olives, this pizza packs a punch. My dining companion immediately upon first bite said, “Heads up, she spicy.” I got a little scared, as my buddy is not one to complain about spice levels and can typically handle much more heat than I can. I was pleasantly surprised to find the spice level was enjoyable and more than tolerable for me. If you can handle something along the lines of Calabrian chili paste, this pizza will be well within your spice-tolerance-threshold. The ultra-creamy Ricotta and the bright, briny olives offer gripping contrast to the spicy sopressa. I don’t care what the VPN says, this pizza is officially awarded the Plonk & Pleasure seal of approval. I maybe don’t have as much clout as the entire country of Italy; but I’m cute and a smartass, which I’m pleasantly surprised to find is usually more than enough to get me by. 

    I wasn’t going to write about it–I was just going to gobble it down as if I were feral and call it my ‘secret’ pizza–but the Black Garlic pizza was too good not to write about! Admittedly, I traveled over an hour with it and then had to re-warm it in my shitty oven on my okay-ish pizza stone. Despite my cruel treatment, this pizza still slapped. (Pizza really is more reliable than any lover I have ever known.) Topped with their house made Mozzarella, black garlic, pancetta, red onion, and basil this pie managed to be both pretty and full of substance. Like, sheeeeeeeeesh! Did any of us really care about black garlic before Bob Belcher bet it all on black garlic? Arguably, no. I think everyone’s favorite dad and grill chef started a genuine movement in American cuisine. And now, thanks to the heavy lifting done by a cartoon character, I get to enjoy pizzas like this. Thanks, Bob–but, maybe more importantly, thanks Venturi for breathing this pizza into reality. This pizza is ulta creamy, ultra cheesy, and the subtle funky-sweetness of the black garlic is, frankly, unmatchable. And I can’t believe I’ve gotten to my penultimate paragraph and only now am I finding the right time to tell you–I will always eat the crust of a Venturi pizza. They’re that good. If this is reading like a rave review, it’s because it is.

    Pizza is the glue that temporarily holds a broken heart together. And while everyday cardiac wear-and-tear can always be treated by the love doctors at your local pizzeria, some matters of the heart require a specialist. If you need a life-changing pizza to keep the shards of your shattered ticker together another day, look no further than Venturi.

  • Johnny OX: a sacred journey through the prowess and expression of a culinary virtuoso…

    Johnny OX: a sacred journey through the prowess and expression of a culinary virtuoso…

    I’ve written a lot about pizza. Scan through previous blogs and you’ll find that I’ve penned that pizza is “more reliable than any lover.” To quote myself, “There’s no amount of money I wouldn’t spend, no distance I wouldn’t travel, no obstacle I wouldn’t overcome for the sake of pizza.” I’ve made questionable choices in the name of pizza before. Drove a little unsafely to reach my final destination–obviously, it was pizza. At the risk of sounding narcissistic, I’ll quote myself once more, “These are the choices that I make for love of pizza. I will never know a greater love.” I used to believe that there was no such thing as decent pizza past Pittsburgh. I’ve grown and I’ve learned. There is good pizza in the midwest. It exists as indisputably as death, taxes, and rats. There is also bad pizza in the midwest, so you have to seek out the good stuff. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again and again: pizza is a love language. Frankly, most pizza places don’t actually speak the love language of pizza–it’s a rare thing. Serving up some dough covered in sauce and cheese doesn’t automatically make you fluent. Love is rare; hard to come by. It doesn’t happen every day. Which, perhaps, is why it’s taken me so long to write about the pizza that is actually, hands down, my absolute favorite in Fort Wayne. It can be a lot easier to tell someone that you “like” them, or even that you “like like” them, than it is to express your love. 

    Saying “I love you,” for the first time can be a scary thing–almost as scary as outwardly admitting which pizza place in Fort Wayne is your favorite. (Imagine doing both in one breath: I’m gonna, baby–if you’ll just stick with me a little longer…) While many Midwesterners might not actually know what good pizza is, they certainly have some fucking strong opinions. But, I suppose that’s historically been the American way–stay ignorant, but hold your uninformed opinion horrifically strongly. God forbid you show up and suggest that a Midwesterner’s favorite little hut selling cardboard covered in ketchup and melting plastic isn’t heaven sent and delicious beyond measure. Look, I love pizza more than I love my own mother. (Sorry, mom! But, we both saw this coming.) I try to have an open mind because I genuinely believe that there is a time and place for all pizzas, regardless of type or quality. But, even with an open mind, I’m going to form my own, (well) informed opinions. I can’t help it. I’m human. There is a pizza place in Fort Wayne that I fell in love with at first bite. I go back over and over again–you couldn’t pay me to stay away. If pizza really is a love language, they speak it fluently. I no longer feel that I need to prioritize getting a pie when I visit home. The stuff being served up by this pizza place in Fort Wayne is just as good–if not better–than any New York (or if you know your shit: New Jersey) slice that I can get in the tristate area when I’m back home on the East Coast. But how do I summarize all of my immeasurably strong feelings about this pizza place? How do I sum it all up into a few pithy paragraphs? It’s easier to say nothing than to try to explain how much I love Johnny OX Pizza and fail at getting my point across clearly–so I’ve stayed quiet. I’ve stayed quiet for too long. If Johnny OX isn’t your favorite pizza in Fort Wayne: you’re wrong. 

    Recently, The Local did a brilliant write up on Johnny OX pizza. (I don’t believe in competition. I want everyone to win. I’ll link to it right here: https://www.thelocalfw.com/johnny-ox/) If you have any questions on Chef Johnny Bojinoff, The Local article will surely have answers. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, Chef Johnny learned how to craft artisanal, neapolitan style pies in Oregon. He already had an extensive history with bread making–his first passion–so pizza was a logical next step. This might explain why the crust on Johnny OX pizzas is so fucking delicious. The dough is fermented for a superior crust. I was recently eating pizza with a friend and she lamented, “I need to just grow up and learn to eat my crust.” To this type of thinking I scream, emphatically, “NO!” If a chef can’t be bothered to make a genuinely delicious pizza crust, you are under no obligation to consume that shit. Some pizza crust belongs in the compost pile. Dips like hot honey and ranch shouldn’t be necessary for consuming the crust: they should be an added bit of flare that makes an already extraordinary crust a little extra fun and fancy. That’s exactly how it is with Johnny OX’s pizza and that is one of the billion reasons why I love them so much. 

    I am always honest with you, even when I’m sugar coating the truth. But here’s where I need to get really honest. On National Pizza Day, I went to Johnny OX Pizza and ordered a pepperoni pie to take home and enjoy. I paid for it and waited for my pizza to come out of the oven–because, one of the many cool things about Johnny OX, is that your pizza will always be fresh out of the wood fired oven. It would have been a good day if I’d simply gotten my pepperoni pizza as expected–like, I even ran into a friend in line while waiting for pizza. My day was going pretty well. Chef Johnny decided to whip up the pizza I ordered, plus their Angel’s Peruvian Chicken Pizza, plus all the dips, plus their Simple Field Greens+ Crumbled Gorgonzola salad, plus a sugar cookie, and one of their absolutely dope chocolate brownies. I was floored. I didn’t expect this kindness. I tried to play it cool but, yes, I almost cried in the car on the way home. It was this act of kindness coupled with my genuine love of Johnny OX Pizza that made me realize that I need to stop fucking around and pretending like I don’t have an absolute, unequivocal, indisputable favorite pizza in Fort Wayne. “The Best” is a title that exists and should be handed out to the place that actually deserves it: and that’s Johnny OX. 

    Let’s start with the salad. I am a girl who will swoon over a simple salad. If I was in the mood for just a super simple salad and didn’t want to make it myself–I’d go to Johnny OX. For $6 you can get a salad of mixed field greens, with crumbled Gorgonzola, and a seriously craveable truffled-white balsamic vinaigrette. Despite loving a salad, I admittedly seek them out a little less often when the weather is cold. But in warmer months: I genuinely crave this elegant, sophisticated simple salad. The truffled-white balsamic vinaigrette is beyond description–you’ll simply have to try it for yourself. The crumbled Gorgonzola adds just that slight creamy, funky edge to the salad. It keeps things interesting. If I close my eyes while eating it, I’m in Europe with my lover: I’m carefree and enjoying my scrumptious salad–maybe with an expensive glass of wine–and my lover is paying for everything. If you’re all for eating your greens, this salad is not to be missed. Chef Johnny isn’t playing around–he’s got the training, he’s got the knowledge, he’s got the palate, and he’s going to make you eat your veggies and love it. 

    Next, the pizza I actually ordered and paid for–the OX Pepperoni. The fact that this pie only costs $26 is an absolute steal. Chef Johnny is meticulous when it comes to choosing ingredients for his pies. You can trust that you’re getting high quality and thoughtfully crafted cuisine when you eat anything from Johnny OX. Their pepperoni pizza is their gorgeous, slow-fermented dough topped with organic marinara, whole milk mozzarella, and dotted with Ezzo natural cased, old world, dry-cured fermented pepperoni. Sounds simple enough, right? Yeah, because at the end of the day it’s just pepperoni pizza. It’s one of the best pepperoni pizzas I’ve ever had–not because it involves rocket science, but because it is exceptionally crafted and uses quality ingredients. Drink whatever you want to drink with your pizza of choice. But if you’re having The OX Pepperoni, consider a Cabernet-Shiraz blend or a Cab Franc. I’m also all about the Gamay, but I wouldn’t kick a Syrah out of bed if it showed up with a Johnny OX pie. 

    The second pie that I had the honor of trying was Angel’s Peruvian Chicken. This is the chicken pizza that will make you be like, “Bye, American BBQ. It was fun while it lasted, but I’m moving on to better things.” Chef Johnny brings his family’s Macedonian and Puerto Rican influences into the cuisine he crafts–and we’re all better off for it. (This girl spent many of her childhood summers in Puerto Rico and has been missing alcapurrias since moving to the Midwest.) I’ll be honest: I’ve seen Angel’s Peruvian Chicken pizza on the menu and have never ordered it because I know that I love their pepperoni pie, I know that I’m obsessed with the I Learned It In Oregon pie, and all of their limited-time special pies are always so enticing. It can be really difficult–nearly impossible–to break your own habits and try something new. If Chef Johnny hadn’t gifted me this pie, I might have never tried it. Now, it will have to be part of my regular pizza rotation–it’s too good to be missed! Atop their expertly fermented, leopard-spotted crust is an Extra Virgin Olive Oil base, melty whole milk mozzarella, Garlic-Lime Miller’s Amish Country Chicken Breast, a bright red speckling of Sweety Drop Peppers, thin slivers of red onion, crumbles of Queso Fresco, and a generous drizzling of ají verde. Don’t know what ají verde is? That’s okay! It’s a super creamy green sauce made from ají peppers and things like garlic, scallion, cilantro, and lime. Nothing about this pie is spicy, but holy moly is it bursting with flavor! The little red peppers give each slice a subtle pop of sweetness. The chicken is beyond tender–it’s the best chicken pizza I’ve ever had, no competition. I could bathe in the green sauce. If it’s not already, make ají verde part of your vocabulary immediately and consume it regularly. I didn’t expect to eat this pizza today, so I didn’t have a wine on hand to pair with it. I personally love a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and I think this high acid white would play nicely with Angel’s Peruvian Chicken pizza. However, I think the pro move is probably to get a Vinho Verde. I will definitely be seeking out a bottle for the next time that I enjoy this pizza. 

    As for the sweets that I got to enjoy, the sugar cookie was yummy as heck. Cookies after a meal are always such a treat. This one wasn’t the overly soft, frosted sugar cookies that you’ll often find on dessert tables. This cookie had texture–it was firm and crumbly, almost reminiscent of a shortbread. I wish I could tell you more about it, but I let my bestie finish it because my attention was completely stolen by the brownie. Nobody is surprised. As much as I love cookies, I am a fickle mistress–and anything chocolate, but especially brownies, will always have the power to steal my attention. If you’ve read the article put out by The Local, you’ll know that this brownie is genuinely straight out of Chef Johnny’s culinary school syllabus. This is not a fudgy brownie–it’s a cake brownie, but it’s creamy. If I’m ever having a bad day, you can fix it by buying me a brownie from Johnny OX. 

    Chef Johnny has got the training, the tools, and the talent: he’s genuinely mastered his craft. Go to Union St. Market any day of the week and you’ll see this man and his protégés slinging picture perfect pies with the elegance and intensity of the shop’s namesake: the noble and gentle ox. Look even closer, and what do you see? Every single recipe is visionary and the ingredients are consistently of the highest quality. Every bite from point to crust of a Johnny OX slice is a sacred journey through the prowess and expression of a culinary virtuoso. Do you have a favorite pizza place in Fort Wayne? If it isn’t Johnny OX, I hate to be the one to break it to you, but you’re wrong. I will sing it from the mountaintop until the chorus of my fellow disciples rings throughout the land: Chef Johnny is the pizza messiah, and Johnny OX is our temple.

  • Junk Ditch Mardi Gras Pairing Dinner: pass a good time…

    Junk Ditch Mardi Gras Pairing Dinner: pass a good time…

    Monday nights used to be for starting the work week, steeling yourself for the slog ahead, and mentally preparing to not punch that one really tedious coworker in the face–no matter how much they maybe might have deserved it. Mondays aren’t like that anymore since Junk Ditch started hosting hella hype-worthy monthly Monday night dinners. I just attended a Mardi Gras inspired dinner at Junk Ditch Brewing Company. Good company, good food, and good times were plentiful–like a fais do-do with no dancing. Laissez les bon temps rouler! Considering that Chef Andrew of Junk Ditch trained in NOLA under Chef Emeril Lagasse, nobody is surprised that this dinner was transportative. My home away from home is The Big Easy (Blech! Literally retching because only tourists refer to NOLA as “The Big Easy.” Apparently, I’ll write those words–for the blog’s sake and to humor you, dear reader–but you’ll never catch me speaking like that. I suffer for my art. You’re welcome.) Given my history with New Orleans, I feel informed enough to speak on the culture of this vibrant city with cuisine as rich and storied as its history. Like Tom Waits, I wish I was there right now. I am planning a trip back–it won’t be for a few more months–but this dinner really got me feeling like my next visit can’t come soon enough.  

    Lights up on our table–seven people and a bread course. Potato Rolls with Creole Butter were presented to us on a plank. (Love this presentation!) Volchy was there and, if you’ve been reading the blog for awhile, you’ll know that he and I coined a term, “better than bread.” The CliffsNotes version is that the bread served to start a meal should be good but the rest of the meal should be better. If the bread is the highlight of the meal, there’s a problem. This bread set a high standard for the rest of the meal to reach. Soft, pillowy rolls with lightly spiced Creole Butter–dreamy. Who doesn’t love buttery carbs? To be real, I could have eaten like six of these and been happy. I could have eaten like a dozen of these and called it a meal. But I behaved. I ate one. I didn’t upset the status quo. It took restraint. You’re welcome.

    Our second plate, but arguably first course, was a Roasted Oyster with Pernod and Spinach. My dude, while I will forever argue that a single oyster is not enough–even for a tasting menu–this plate was bonkers! So, you can combine salt and egg whites to create, essentially, a crust. If you don’t know, now you know. Encase fish or meat in the concoction for dope results. On this particular occasion, the combination was actually used as a bed to hold our oyster shell–and it was a sexy as hell plating. Très chic! Atop the salty bed, half an oyster shell with a vibrant pop of spinach-green sauce and some crispy-bits of joy. There was some debate at the table if this bite was best devoured by fork or by slurping. I’ll slurp raw oysters all day long, but as soon as they’re cooked I feel like a fork needs to be involved. (Unless they’re breaded and fried–and then it’s fingers all day long, baby!) I wasn’t disappointed with my fork approach. I got essentially the whole nibble in one fell swoop. Best bite of the evening? Hard to say. It was definitely better than bread. I could eat a dozen or two of these babies and not be even a little bit sad. How could you be sad when you’re eating oysters? They’re an aphrodisiac. You can’t be sad while eating oysters–only horny. To pair, the Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc. This high acid wine came through clutch with green apple, lemon, and grapefruit notes. While it was the first pairing of the evening, it remained one of the most fun! 

    Our next course was Black Bean Soup and I can confidently say that it was unlike any other black bean soup I’ve ever had in my life. Having grown up spending many summers in Puerto Rico, black bean soup has long been on my radar. I make it at home sometimes: it’s a beloved cold weather dish. Often this soup has a thick texture–both from beans and the vegetables cooked with them. On this particular occasion, the soup was effectively vacant of texture. It was the most velvety, smooth black bean soup I’ve ever ingested. There was even a bit of Pernod in the broth; it burst with flavor. To fully enjoy this soup, you’d need to throw away any preconceived notions of black bean soup that you hold. You need to start with a fully blank slate, as if you’ve never once heard the words “black,” “bean,” and “soup” before. As its own thing, this soup kinda slapped. It was simply nothing like any black bean soup I’d ever had before. The soup was paired with the Parducci Chardonnay. A Californian wine, it was bright and crisp. Not a remarkable performance, but also no notes. 

    For the salad course, Shredded Romaine, Salami, Ham, Peppers, Olives, and Provolone. This salad was chopped to perfection. This type of salad is having a moment: internet famous and making the rounds on all social media platforms. This particular version was delicious, but difficult to explain. With not enough olives to be reminiscent of a Muffaletta, and not the right kind of meats to be reminiscent of a Po’ Boy, this salad was like the grinder (re: hoagie, hero, sub, or spuckie depending on your locale) of our collective dreams. I’m sure this salad could break the internet if it tried. To pair, a super fun wine–The Stump Jump White Blend. This blend is all the things you might want from a warm climate white wine. Super fruity, a nice balance of acidity and sweetness, and a little funkiness from some subtle vegetal qualities. Could quaff this–call it a porch pounder or couch crusher, if you must. This was also the white wine pick for the soup course pairing at Junk Ditch’s NYE dinner. I guess if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. 

    Next, to what was perhaps my favorite plate of the evening–Shrimp Ravioli with Shrimp Sauce. Two hefty ravioli were topped with some spicy andouille and ever-so-thinly sliced scallion. I am a ravioli girl and I’m not living in a ravioli world; but I should be, so I’m trying my best to make it one. When these juicy moments arise where I’m at a tasting dinner and get a plate with not one, but two, raviolis–I swoon. Life is beautiful and so was the ravioli. The little pasta pockets of deliciousness and joy were a wee bit spicy–I liked it. I liked it a lot. To pair, the Opici Chianti. If you’re a Chianti snob, maybe it’s not for you. This bottle comes straight out of the sunshine state–which, obviously, isn’t Italy. But, y’all, I for sure didn’t hate it. Like, cowabunga, this Chianti is full-bodied, not too tannic, and balanced with nice acid. Juicy red fruits with just a touch of spice. When it comes to pairing with food, this Chianti is fucking niiiiiiice. 

    Do you think short ribs are an undervalued and underutilized cut of beef? Yeah you right! We love all beef–but especially fork tender, flavor-poppin’ beef. For our final savory plate of the evening: Braised Beef Short Rib, Red Beans, Dirty Rice, and Hollandaise came together in perfect union. Did you know that dirty rice typically utilizes chicken lips, beaks, and spurs–I kid, obviously. It’s offal. No, not awful–it’s fucking fantastic–it’s chicken livers or whatever. I didn’t know about the chicken livers, but I did know I like it. I can tell you that the holy trinity of Cajun cuisine is onion, celery, and green bell pepper. (Like a mirepoix, but you swap the carrot for pepper.) I can tell you that the holy trinity of seasoning is black pepper, white pepper, and cayenne. I can tell you that I love red beans and rice but I couldn’t tell you how to make it. What I can confidently tell you is how to eat it–slowly savoring each bite, and with a lot of weird noises that border on being sexual. If you’re not “Mmming” somebody did something wrong. Junk Ditch made me “Mmm.” I’m sure the wine pairing helped–the Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône. There was a lot going on with this French red wine. With bold tannins, this full-bodied wine boasted notes of jammy red fruit, smoke, leather, and spice. I’d love to revisit this wine, but paired with steak frites. 


    Ah, dessert–the course so many of us look forward to. Even being a savory chick, I can’t help but hold a soft spot in my heart (and a sweet tooth in my gaping maw) for really good desserts. Junk Ditch presented their take on a Bananas Foster. No flames, just torn banana cake topped with their iteration of a bananas-foster-type-sauce, brown sugar ice cream on a bed of sweet crumble, and a bit of torched banana. As a cake gremlin, I’ll never be mad about being fed a piece of cake–whether it’s served by someone who subscribes to the school of tearing cake or cutting neat, uniform slices. I also like bananas. And ice cream. And setting stuff on fire. This dessert wasn’t set on fire–I just kind of felt like we were having a beautiful moment of honesty and vulnerability, so I thought I’d come clean. Hi. I’m a closet pyromaniac. Anyway, if there’s leftover cake, can someone make sure I get a hefty portion? My doctor says I have a cake deficiency. It’s critical. I’m not long for this world–unless I get more cake. Good thing this dessert was paired with a glass of LaLuca Prosecco. If I’m going to die from a cake deficiency, at least I’ve gulped something nice and bubbly before prematurely departing from this mortal coil. This creamy crisp sip was effervescent, with lively bubbles, and all the typical green fruit and citrus notes you anticipate with this style of wine. It’s even a little toasty–who knew that the “better than bread” philosophy could even carry into the wine world.

    I spend a lot of my time wishing I was in New Orleans. I can see it in my dreams. Arm-in-arm down Burgundy; a bottle and my friends and me. So, who would have thought my dreams would come true on Main Street in Fort Wayne, IN. These monthly Monday night dinners at Junk Ditch are really fantasies come to life. I’m already looking forward to what wild culinary adventure February will bring our way. So, wear that dress I like so well and meet me at Junk Ditch on the last Monday of the month. Make sure there’s a dixie moon. In January, NOLA, I was home–without ever leaving Fort Wayne. Who knows what magical universe we’ll be transported to next month. All I know is, the adventure always starts and ends at Junk Ditch.

  • Savor Tolon: the Steak Frites is iconic…

    Savor Tolon: the Steak Frites is iconic…

    Certain things are simply “iconic.” They define a cultural moment. They epitomize a person, place, thing. Nothing is born iconic, but everything is born with iconic potential. If the stars align and the zeitgeist is right, anything can become “iconic.” But, ultimately, to be considered an icon, something must be celebrated, revered, or idolized in some way by somebody. The Eiffel Tower is iconic of Paris. Zelda Fitzgerald is iconic of the flapper era. Hell, maybe If I keep hustling and using all the best words to describe all the yummiest things, someday I’ll become an icon of the food scene–known for my writing, but perhaps better known for my black beret, little black dresses, and stomping around Fort Wayne in my black combat boots like I own the damn place. I’m a menace. Who even invited me to the Midwest? (Let the record show that, depending on who you ask, I’m already an icon. So, la-di-da.) It should come as no surprise that food can be iconic. Disney World has Mickey Mouse waffles. Hawaii has malasada and Spam. Chicago has the deep dish pizza and veggie-loaded hotdog with neon green relish. When it comes to Fort Wayne iconic food, I’m sure the long term locals have lots of opinions. But, I’m not asking for opinions–I have something to tell you.

    Steak frites is a classic dish. Right now, it seems like every restaurant (and their mother) has a version of it on their menu–and I don’t just mean in Fort Wayne. It’s globally revered. You’d think that any plate of steak and fries is likely to look like the next. You are welcome to think that. You’re also welcome to be wrong. I posted a photo online of the Steak Frites from Tolon with no context and no indication of where the dish was from. Would you believe that multiple people were able to identify the photo as being the Steak Frites specifically from Tolon? I mean, talk about an iconic food. We were beyond blessed to have the Steak Frites from Tolon featured as an option on their Savor Fort Wayne menu this year. Spoiler alert: I ate it.

    My dining companion and I arrived at Tolon late on Saturday evening; they were packed. We had a reservation because we’re smart. She ordered a glass of Moscato. I opted for a glass of Mollydooker “The Boxer” Shiraz–I already knew there was a rare ribeye in my future when I ordered this. Fun fact: there’s something called the Mollydooker Shake. So, for Mollydooker red wines, you’re actually supposed to pour a tiny bit out after opening the bottle, then recap it. Invert the bottle. Give it a little shake. They treat their wines with nitrogen, so this is important to ensure a full-flavored experience. You don’t need to know about any of that to order a glass of Mollydooker at a restaurant. But hey, now you do know it–so, you’re welcome.

    The Tolon Savor deal was $49 per person: plus beverage, tax, and gratuity. This cost included an appetizer, entree, and dessert. (The steak frites had an upcharge of $20, but nobody is complaining about that because it was still a great deal.) To start, diners could choose between the Kale and Apple Salad or the Indiana Cheese Fondue. The nice thing about having dinner with one of the sweetest human beings on the planet is that they’ll always share their food with you–no questions asked. I ordered the salad. She ordered the fondue. We got to enjoy both. The fondue is a mix of brie, aged goat cheese, and white cheddar. This melts down into one of the most creamy fondues I’ve ever had the pleasure of sampling. Topped with pretty red pickled Fresno chiles and served with warm artisanal focaccia, this is definitely a must try. As for the salad: it had me swooning. The Kale and Apple Salad at Tolon is absolutely one of those situations where I’ll eat my veggies and like it. Shredded kale, chunks of Honeycrisp apple, pickled raisins, dry aged drunken goat cheese, and pumpkin seeds are all married together by an apple and maple vinaigrette. This salad is a perfect balance of creamy and crisp textures. It offers just enough sweetness to beautifully contrast the natural bitterness of kale. It’s an exercise in culinary symmetry and it rises to the occasion deliciously. 

    For the main event, my dining companion opted for the Garlic Shrimp Scampi. Of course, I was afforded a hefty bite. My dudes, the shrimp were behemoth–like, Indiana has never seen shrimp this size before. These not-so-little darlings were reaching the point that “shrimp” was no longer an appropriate name for them. These colossal sea critters were beyond delicious. The portion was more than generous, the texture firm yet tender. Served in a sea of spicy Calabrian chile butter; an island of velvety mascarpone polenta nested in the center of the plate. A pine nut and parsley gremolata served both as a welcome pop of green against the orange hued sauce and as a compelling textural element. If I lived in a world where steak frites didn’t exist, I would order this Garlic Shrimp Scampi. But, in my little world, steak frites reign supreme. 

    I paid the extra $20 for my Wood Farms ribeye. Rubbed with Tolon’s Umami Rub, my beautiful ultra-pink steak rested upon a bed of Bone Marrow Bordelaise. This classic, red wine based French sauce is a luxurious accompaniment to any steak dinner, but here it really serves as a supporting character to the star of the show. Atop the steak, a sizeable knob of slowly melting Foie Gras Butter. It oozes across the surface of the steak. It’s reminiscent of that moment from The Lion King where Mufasa tells Simba that everything the light touches is his kingdom. I watch the butter flow and glide across the surface of my steak–everything it touches is perfection. Everything it touches is infinitely better for its presence. Everything it touches is pure liquid gold–and I intend to savor every last morsel. A hefty pile of duck fat and garlic herb frites sits next to the ribeye; the fries atop the pile remain the crispest, the ones at the bottom soak up more and more flavorful Bordelaise with each passing moment. I alternate bites of ribeye with sips of Shiraz, occasionally breaking the routine to enjoy a fry or five. At this point in the meal, I have become very bad at holding conversation. My dining companion is hilarious, engaging, and such fantastic company–but the Steak Frites is iconic. I’m devouring the stuff of legends. I have no time–nor ability–to engage with humans. My meal is divine in every sense of the word and each bite has me bordering on a religious experience. This is my desert island meal. This is my last supper. This is what I want to taste when I’m celebrating or mourning. This is iconic for a reason. This is, dare I say, the best Steak Frites in town. Ope! There I’ve gone and said it and now I’ll be swarmed with dissenting opinions. I’ll save you the trouble–I’m not interested in your personal hot take. I said what I said and I meant it. No well meaning suggestion to try some other offering will make me change my mind. Baby, I’ve probably already tried it–I’ve tried most of them. This isn’t a swing in the dark. This is an educated deduction. The Steak Frites from Tolon is a Fort Wayne icon. I propose a statue be erected in its honor. Someone else can figure out the logistics—I’m more of an ‘ideas’ kind of gal. Something marble? Maybe gold? I assure you, this Steak Frites is worth it. Spare no cost in immortalizing it, Fort Wayne. 

    As for dessert, I got to try a bite of my friend’s Brown Butter Blondie. They’d run out of the Bourbon and Brown Sugar ice cream. Je déprime! My peach of a dining companion is unflappable–she just opted for a different ice cream flavor. She went for the Burnt Marshmallow ice cream that is typically part of the S’mores Sundae served at Tolon. As a fan of the S’mores Sundae, I wasn’t sad to see this marshmallow ice cream unexpectedly make an appearance at our table. It’s special. The Brown Butter Blondie was, again, substantial. We can talk all day long about the price tag that comes with dining at Tolon. (Well, I mean, you can if you want. I won’t, because I think it’s tacky.) But, the quality and quantity of food is bonkers–more than worth what you pay. To top it all off, the blondie got a sexy little drizzle of butterscotch caramel sauce. I hope I get the opportunity to try this sweet little treat again someday. My dessert was a little more sinful–a “Deviled” Affogato. Dark, dense, decadent devil’s food cake was served in a coffee mug with a scoop of espresso gelato. Tableside, they pour over coffee. I enjoy an affogato. You could even say that it’s one of my (many) weaknesses. Never before have I had one that included cake. From this experience, I’ve determined that we’ve all been eating affogatos wrong. Cake should always be invited to the party. You know me. I’m nothing if not a cake gremlin. Tonight proved no exception. Even after an insanely rich and heavy meal, I devoured my dessert shamelessly–and I’d do it again. No, really–it’s midnight as I’m writing this and if Tolon were still open I’d consider hauling my ass downtown to beg for one last serving of the “Deviled” Affogato. The combo of chocolate and coffee, the collision of consistencies, the coalescence of bitter and sweet–if loving this dessert is wrong, I don’t want to be right. If it’s devilish to indulge, save me a seat in hell and an extra serving of this affogato so that I have something nice to gobble down in the flames. 

    Welp…what more is there to say? Fort Wayne has had no shortage of icons over the years. I mean, come on, the city is named for a guy so crazy that that’s all most people even know about him–well, if by crazy you mean racist/genocidal. John Chapman looms large in the iconography of this town–also historically an asshole. It may come as no surprise that I prefer Fort Wayne’s favorite daughter, Shelley Long–historically, not an asshole. And, I know; Fort Wayne’s food scene is not hurting for icons, either. But what would be more midwestern than making room for one more. So, who’s going to fund the Tolon Steak Frites statue?

  • Savor Solbird: food so good you’ll wish you could stay all night…

    Savor Solbird: food so good you’ll wish you could stay all night…

    Solbird is delicious fusion food for the soul. With a name inspired by The Doors song Soul Kitchen, this restaurant has something in common with The Doors: they’re both amazing and, in my opinion, timeless. This place has fantastic food, eclectic ambiance–say hello to the giant colorful portrait of Jim Morrison hanging on the wall, and a playlist of bangers. From Bowie to The Smiths: there’s always something on that I want to bop along to. The only downside to this restaurant is that it’s so far North, it’s practically “in Canada.” But, I promise you: it’s worth the trek. If you haven’t been yet, during Fort Wayne’s “Savor” week is absolutely the right time to give them a try. For just $24 you can score an entree, side dish, and dessert. If you want to plus-up that deal, for just $4 more, you can do an appetizer, entree, and dessert. My dining pals and I aren’t brand new. We know a good deal when we see one; we all got appetizers, entrees, and desserts. There was sooo much to savor–pun intended–so allow me to spill the juicy details.

    Most of Solbird’s appetizers qualify for their Savor Menu deal. So, whether you’re in the mood for some house spiced chips and queso fundido, some shrimp ceviche, or one of several awesome loaded papas fritas options, there’s something on the menu that will spark joy. Bestie was in it for the queso fundido. They added chorizo to this already decadent appetizer because, for the duration of Savor, heathen mode is engaged. I stole a nibble of chips and cheese. The cheese-pulls that were achieved at our table were epic–no photos provided, because the cheese pulls were boarding on graphic. I don’t want to break the internet. You’ll just have to use your imagination, ya cheese perv. I opted for the Mexican Poutine, which is Solbird’s interpretation of the Canadian classic. Poutine purists will be offended. If your heart only has room for Poutine composed of fries, unmelted cheese curds, and brown gravy–stop reading now. The Mexican Poutine is a little bucket of Solbird’s ancho fries loaded up with Chorizo gravy, cheddar cheese, pico de gallo, queso fresco, cilantro, green onion, and chipotle crema. Personally, I’m more comfortable calling this a ‘loaded fry’ situation than a ‘poutine.” But ultimately, whatever you call it, I’m going to smash it. It’s loaded to the point of requiring a fork for consumption: and nobody is going to be mad about that. This is one of those dishes that inspires instant happiness. If I’m sad, and then I eat this Mexican Poutine, I will not be sad anymore. Paired with a glass of Cava, you really can’t go wrong.

    For entrees, everyone at the table got something different. Since basically every entree on the menu qualifies for the Savor deal: there are a lot of things to choose from! You can get a combo of two tacos, or one of several styles of quesadillas or burritos–and dude, let me tell you, their burritos are pretty hefty. Bestie is just enough of a masochist that they had to try the Hot Cheeto Burrito. While many Flaming Hot Cheeto inspired foods lean too far into hot-enough-to-hurt territory, this burrito was surprisingly well balanced. A blend of Wood Farms chuck, brisket, and short rib is enrobed in a flour tortilla with Hot Cheetos, rice verde, chihuahua cheese, pico de gallo, tinga sauce, and chipotle crema. The entire thing is covered in a blanket of queso and a snowfall of cautionary red Hot Cheeto dust. The queso absolutely does a lot of work in the way of providing unctuous fattiness to cut through the heat. Bestie was in burrito heaven. Since I’ve only ever gotten burritos on my previous trips to Solbird, I opted to go in a new direction. I ran directly into the arms of a quesadilla–which is for sure some quintessential, white girl bullshit. Sorry not sorry: the Shrimp, Pesto, and Goat Cheese quesadilla might be the least spicy, traditional, or Mexican/Korean fusion inspired dish on the menu…but, it slaps. The quesadilla is cut into four adorable triangles and served on a wooden plank. Adorbs. The gorgeously browned tortilla is filled with ancho shrimp, a pesto-goat cheese blend, and chihuahua cheese. The individual triangles are topped with a squiggle of chipotle crema; so if you’re not in favor of getting food on your fingers, maybe this isn’t the dish for you. Your girl loves shrimpys, your girl loves goat cheese, and anybody who doesn’t enjoy a bit of pesto is no friend of mine. Despite all of my known passions, was this menu item a weird pick for me? Totally. When I go somewhere, I try to get cuisine that really highlights what that place is all about. I could have done the Thai Shrimp Burrito (again; because I’ve had it before and loved it) or I could have ventured into Korean Beef Taco territory. But I didn’t–and you know what–I have zero regrets. I know the Shrimp, Pesto, Goat Cheese quesadilla is probably on the menu to assuage picky-eaters–but y’all should give it a go. It’s really delightful. The subtle herbaceous pesto notes, the creamy goat cheese mixed with the melty pull of the Chihuahua cheese, and the really nice firm bite of the shrimp: this quesadilla is a winner. 

    As for dessert, I’ll be honest and say at least two out of four people at my table were really excited to try the Churro Waffles–and two out of four people were really disappointed that they didn’t have the Churro Waffles when we were there. Most of us opted for the Mexican Brownie. I guess this is the kind of dessert that, for foodies, will be basic, but it might knock your grandma’s socks off–depending on how hip your grandma is. It’s a brownie with some spices. You probably know the deal. Cayenne and chocolate play nicely together. Topped with a squirt of whipped cream, dusted with a bit of cinnamon sugar, and garnished with a few doodles of chocolate and caramel sauces on the plate. A basic dessert executed really well. Who’s going to complain about a lovely, spiced, chocolatey brownie? The pro-move might actually be to order the Pineapple-Orange Ice Cream with Chamoy, Tajin, and dried pineapple & mango. For the uninitiated, this is a take on a classic Mexican dessert. Tropical fruit ice cream–sometimes more-so in the Dolewhip category than ice cream category–is topped with Chamoy. If you don’t know that Chamoy is a sauce, sort of like a hot sauce, made from fruits, lime juice, and dried chiles: now you know. I’ll be honest and say that I didn’t opt for this for three reasons 1) I’m not a huge dried fruit fan. 2) I’ve had this type of dessert before; so it wasn’t a new experience for me and 3) I’m hormonal and after the disappointment of not getting a Churro Waffle, I needed chocolate to soothe the savage beast. It’s me. Hi. I’m the savage beast. (I mean, you didn’t ask, but now you know.) Do I think you should try the ice cream if you haven’t experienced something like this before? Emphatically yes. This is definitely one of those cool things that’s only available during Savor that you really shouldn’t miss out on if you can help it. Do as I say, not as I do.

    If you haven’t been getting out and savoring all the flavors that there are to crave here in Fort Wayne during Savor, do yourself a favor: be a little braver, take a drive until you’ve drove past the hollow glow of the streetlights, through the neon grove, up north (or down south for my Canadian friends,) to Solbird. You’ve probably got a list of places you’ve been saving to savor this Savor season, but there’s still one place to go. If Solbird’s not on your list yet: fix it. Food so good you’ll wish you could stay all night.

  • Paella Night at Bravas: a taste of romance…

    Paella Night at Bravas: a taste of romance…

    Food is erotic. If that phrase shocks you, you’re probably new here. If that phrase somehow insults you or makes you feel uncomfortable, maybe I’m not the writer for you. If you know food (or me) intimately enough, you probably read that first sentence and thought to yourself, “No shit; tell me something I don’t know.” But, that’s what I’m afraid of, my friend. What if I can’t tell you something that you don’t already know? I mean, erotic is easy. Sexuality is in our nature, as long as we don’t get in our own way–after all, we’re animals. Look at a peach. Take a slow, juicy bite. Yada, yada, something about its juices dripping down your throat or slowly trickling down your chin or whatever. Food is erotic and we all know it to be true. However: recently, I found myself wondering why Spanish food and wine is so romantic. For me, that feels like a more challenging topic to traverse. Romance and sex are not the same thing–not even a little bit. I’m not certain that I’m the right tour guide to take you on a journey where we explore how food and romance (dare I even say the dirty, four letter word, “love”) are intimately and inextricably interwoven. As the self proclaimed queen of heartbreak, I’m probably a bad ambassador for all things appetizing and amorous. But being bad at love has never stopped me from trying before. 

    I’m no historian. Cold hard facts don’t really get me off in the same way that fanciful fairy tales do. I live for a good story–like the tale behind the word “paella.” The story of paella is so romantic and lovely that I don’t care whether or not it’s true; it can live in my head rent-free forever and I’ll always make sure there’s space for it. As the story goes, this world-famous Spanish dish was first created by a man for his lover. The name of this dish comes from the Spanish words “para ella” which translates to “for her.” This is infinitely more romantic than any boy who has ever put my name into some garage-band level, shit-rock song. The bar for bare minimum effort has been raised. I want a lover who crafts brand new, delicious dishes in my honor or bust. The words “for her” whisper in my subconscious like a siren song. Is anything even allowed to be this romantic? Is paella what love tastes like? Does love this limitless and unyielding actually exist in the real world and does it always come with rice? These are all questions that plagued my mind on my long walk to Bravas for their Paella Night Experience. 

    It had snowed early in the day, but not long after dawn the skies gave way to an unyielding rainfall. Midwestern winter was in full swing. The air was bitter, cold, and practically unbreathable. The rain pelted like frigid shards of glass stinging my reddened, icy cheeks. I didn’t dare leave any inch of skin exposed that I could comfortably cover. Bundled in my winter warmest, with unfamiliar romantic ideals as my secret company, I trudged the slushy, sloppy blocks to Bravas. The daylight hours had been dismal. (Well, it’s winter in Fort Wayne: hope your favorite color is gray!) But by the time it came to venture to Bravas, the darkness of night was upon me–though it was only early evening. I wondered, “Is this romantic?” It certainly didn’t feel romantic–plodding and clomping my Doc Martens through slush while shivers colonized my spine and soon claimed my jaw as their new capital. I imagined romance to be less cold and damp; though perhaps equally shaky, but from different causes. I suppose that sometimes these things are simply about your perspective. That movie-magic, picture-perfect kiss at the end of Breakfast at Tiffany’s would realistically be soggy, cold, and smell like rancid New York City garbage. Does romance often smell like trash? That can’t be right–it must smell like all matter of intoxicating things–it must smell like paella. 

    Pintxos: like tapas, but not. It’s how the evening began. These little snacks, native to Northern Spain, were served family style at a table full of strangers. That’s fine, because once the pintxos get busted out, strangers quickly turn into friends; and friends are basically our chosen family. We enjoyed scrummy marinated olives and heavenly pan con tomate–two small plates that any fans of Bravas are likely highly familiar with. They’re well-loved for a reason. Boquerones graced the table. (Anchovies marinated in olive oil, vinegar, garlic, and a little parsley; for the uninitiated.) Is it wrong to say this plate, one of the most simple of the evening, was also one of my favorites? Ya girl is in her fish era. I recently got a hat that says “Anchovy Club.” I’m not secretive about where my loyalties currently lie–it’s with stinky little fishies. There were also these super, ultra tender beef skewers, which I’m sure you’d like to hear more about…but, like I said, my loyalties are to the fishies. All of the aforementioned little bites shared two major points in common–all were delicious and all had the serious potential to make your breath stink like crazy. Which begs the question, “Is Spanish food romantic because it forces your lover to adore you despite anchovy and garlic breath?” To pair, a glass of sparkling wine–in the style of Champagne, but not Champagne. Acidic, bubbly wines pair great with little nibbly foods. A great way to start the evening? You betcha. But, who’s surprised? Bravas always brings their A game. 

    The first plate of the evening was a winter salad built mostly of greens and beets dusted in a festive snowfall of cheese. I’ll be real with you: I’m still learning to love beets. While this may not have been my favorite salad ever, it was well loved by all those around me–and those around me were well entitled to their opinions. As luck would have it, I sat across from the owners, head brewer, and chef of Parlor City Brewing. As people who enjoy beets, they dug this salad. (So, trust their professional opinions and not mine.) I still got down on the wine pairing; an Albariño. Super acidic and citrusy, this was a gulpable sip. I may have been a bad girl and not eaten all of my vegetables on this particular occasion, but I definitely got more than my fair share of fruits–in the way of fermented grape juice. 

    The soup course was a masterfully crafted caldo gallego. Composed of pork broth, white bean, potato, jamón, and kale, caldo gallego is a quintessential cuisine of Northern Spain. Nutrient and flavor dense, this dish utilizes “unto.” We could call it rancid pork fat, we could call it ‘salted and cured’ pork fat, or we could keep it real and just call it the flavor-bomb that gives caldo gallego its je ne sais quoi. Whatever it is, it’s worth trying twice–because it’s good enough that you’ll want a second taste. It was soup weather outside and this was an ideal soup to enjoy on such a day. It was warming and soul nourishing. (Sort of like love is supposed to be, I guess.) To pair, the Bodegas Raúl Pérez Ultreia Godello–which brings me back to my curiosities about romance. Why is Spanish wine so utterly flirtatious, bordering on seductive? This white boasts pear and lemon–and I know I said I wouldn’t talk about minerality anymore in 2024 but as I type this up I’m a little tipsy and it’s late so let me, just one last time, lazily mention the minerality and salinity of this wine. Big yum. Recommendable sip. Make this something you gulp in 2024. If you can have it with some caldo gallego, even better.

    Now, the reason we were all there. The pièce de résistance: the paella. A simple dish of bomba rice, sofrito, organic chicken, butifarra sausage, and saffron coming together to be greater than the sum of their parts–and their parts were all pretty great to start with, so imagine what happens when you skillfully combine this supergroup of ingredients. Was this the best paella I’ve ever had? Yeah, sure–I’ll give that accolade to Bravas. It was absolute top notch paella. To pair, a wine I’ve come to have a bit of a crush on: the Ultreia Saint Jacques Mencía. I’ve written about this wine before: dry red, higher acid, and super food friendly. With delicate tannins and delicious fruitiness, it’s no wonder I’m smitten with this bottle. I revisit it–perhaps more than I should. I suppose it’s like a lover. I enjoy it, so I return. If I ever stop enjoying it, I’ll stop returning. But I don’t envision myself falling out of love with it any time soon. 

    Dessert was bonkers, to say the very least. An apple crisp with vanilla ice cream is typically nothing to go bananas over–but what if I told you that the ‘crisp’ part was made of Cheez-Its. (I feel like I’m giving away a big secret. Sorry, fam, but the tea had to be spilled.) I haven’t had Cheez-Its since elementary school. I had a turtle named Waldo who I would feed Cheez-Its as a little snack–that goofy reptile went apeshit for those cautionary-orange-hued crackers. Waldo was one of the first creatures I ever loved. He was also one of the first creatures I ever lost. When he died, I swore I’d never eat Cheez-Its again. Like, I guess my thinking was that since Waldo could never eat Cheez-Its again, I too would never eat Cheez-Its again in solidarity. I know the logic doesn’t exactly track: but I was a grieving child. I don’t have to make it make sense. I had a big feeling and that’s how I coped with it and I stuck to that promise for over two decades. Then Bravas sneak attacked me with Cheez-Its in my apple crisp. Thanks, Bravas. No, but really–thanks, Bravas, because I was kind of obsessed with the sweet and salty pairing. Also, sometimes moving on takes a little push. I feel like I grew a lot tonight. It’s important to know when to let go–and for everything else, there’s apple crisp. They paired it with a Sherry. I won’t pretend to know much about Sherry; it’s a blind-spot for me in my wine studies. I simply haven’t had very much exposure to this wine. What I can say is that this particular Sherry sparked my curiosity–so I’ll definitely consider exploring more Sherry. A little bird told me Bravas is expecting a bit of a shake-up in terms of their wine menu in the very near future, so perhaps you’ll be able to go and sample this Sherry. When I say “perhaps,” I really mean it sounds like this is something you could presently go to Bravas and ask for, if you wanted to. I suggest you do. 
    Spanish food is easy to fall in love with–especially the paella from Bravas. Thoughtfully paired with quaffable wines, I can’t think of a better way to spend an evening. It was fun, delicious, and–above all else–simple. From the dishes presented to the family-style picnic table dining experience, everything about the night was just really simple. The thing about simple things is that they have to be really perfect to be good: there’s no grandeur to hide behind. Simplicity can be difficult to achieve and even more impossible to execute flawlessly. Bravas did it–seemingly without breaking a sweat. So, here’s the moment where I admit that my fears were founded: I am indeed a bad ambassador for this journey. Simplicity completely goes against my understanding of romance. For me, love stories are generally either triangles or tragedies–riddled with confusion, anxiety, and most definitely never a happy ending. The way I’ve previously viewed romance, there’s nothing simple about it. But, this meal forces me to change my perspective. Romance is simple. At least, it’s supposed to be. If we’re going to search for love, we should search for a love like paella–simple, quality ingredients coming together to make something greater than the sum of their parts. It should be something that develops with time and attention. There’s no quick shortcut, microwave ready, television-dinner-style substitute that comes close to the real thing. Love, like paella, requires effort–something so pure and simple, it need only be tended to properly for it to flourish. If you don’t tend to it properly, no amount of added extravagance or truffle oil will save it–you’ll only muck it up and make it worse. I want a love like paella. But, until then–pintxos, paella, and some Spanish wine from Bravas are the perfect placeholders to fill the vacant space in my heart. Spanish food is romantic–more romantic than any lover I’ve ever known. I don’t know the feeling well enough yet. I’d like to know it better someday; which I suppose means I’ll have to eat a lot more Spanish food. Lucky me. If your lover doesn’t bring paella to the table: send them packing. I am accepting applications for lovers and fast tracking any applicant who will take me to the next Paella Night at Bravas. I will relentlessly crave their paella until the next time that I’m lucky enough to enjoy it again. I’ve had a taste of romance: and I want more.