Meet the Meatery

In late summer, I went out to dinner with no intention of writing a review of the restaurant, but the events of the evening have dictated that I share my experience with others. It was never my plan to write a review; all I wanted was to finally try a restaurant that had been on my radar for upwards of three years. I did not decide to write about the experience until after my meal had ended. I took no notes. I only have my memories; which I will now happily share with you. Two things you must know about me before I continue with this tale: first and foremost, I’ve never been much of a squeaky wheel. If I caught on fire while dining, I would likely hesitate to ask my server for water to extinguish the flames–especially if they were having a busy night. It’s simply not my style. My preference is to be as low maintenance a diner as possible and to, hopefully, make the staff’s night a little easier. I never want to be the table that a server dreads approaching. The very thought makes my skin crawl and, while I have about a million reasons why; now isn’t the time to get into the finer details of my thoughts on this subject. Because I still need to tell you about point number two, which is that I adore people-watching almost as much as I love food and wine. I’m a relatively quiet person, but the wheels of my mind are constantly turning. While in public, I really can’t help but take in the goings-on of the people around me. Call it nosey, if you must. I prefer to think of myself as perceptive. Knowing these two things about me will, perhaps, shed some light on the details my mind has clung to from my recent dining experience.  

I had wanted to try One Ten Craft Meatery in Warsaw, IN dating back to when I was still an East Coast dweller. It was always on my mind as a place I might like to score a reservation anytime I traveled through the area, but sadly, the fates were never kind enough to put me in the right place at the right time. Now, having lived in the Midwest for almost a year, I finally decided that I’d waited long enough and it was time for me to make my hour-long pilgrimage for dinner at One Ten Craft Meatery. The menu had always intrigued me, but I knew next to nothing else about the restaurant. So, surely, I was in for a surprise. 

The night before I planned to dine, I scheduled and received confirmation of my reservation online for the first available dinner seating. (Avoiding crowds by dining earlier is a personal preference, but if you’re also highly introverted, I really can’t recommend it enough.) Unfortunately, upon arrival at One Ten Craft Meatery, they had no record of my reservation. They were very kind about the mix-up and accommodated me without fuss or bother, which was deeply appreciated. An older couple arrived around the same time as me, without a reservation, and they were also accommodated. We sat at nearby tables, toward the front window of the tiny, eclectically bedecked restaurant, late afternoon sun pouring in upon us. I enjoyed the atmosphere and sunshine immensely as it illuminated the restaurant and allowed me to take in the sights, fresh to my eyes, at my leisure: beautiful exposed brick, reclaimed windows hung decoratively, and a slew of various potted plants. Basking in sunbeams, I began to peruse the menu until my attention was pulled away by a small commotion at the table near mine. The older couple did not appreciate the sunlight, citing sensitive eyes, and thus the shades were promptly drawn by the attentive staff to accommodate the preference of these diners. Without the sunlight, the restaurant remained bright enough to easily take in the menu without any eye strain; so I did exactly that. 

While everything on the menu is sure to impress, the real reason to go to One Ten Craft Meatery is for their steaks. They have impressive cuts of meat, often including a Wagyu option. Unfortunately, on the night that I was dining there, they had run out of Wagyu. The older couple made a quiet stink about this, as they’d apparently driven three hours just to try the Wagyu and, if they couldn’t have Wagyu, they didn’t know what else from the thoughtfully crafted menu they might enjoy. My overhearing this interaction between customer and waitress soon led to my first observation of One Ten Craft Meatery’s owner and chef, Jason Brown. Unassuming and blonde, with an infectious smile, Brown left the kitchen and came to speak with the older couple. He apologized for not having Wagyu available for them and helped them determine what available menu items would most delight them. He offered that in the future, should they choose to make the three hour trek to dine there again, with advanced notice he could hold back some Wagyu to ensure it would be available for them upon arrival. His conversation with the couple was far from rushed. He sat and allowed them to fully enjoy his company and attention; he shared his wealth of knowledge without ever coming across as pretentious or a braggart. Though I only heard tidbits of the conversation, I was thoroughly impressed that he took the time to give the couple a brief history of Wagyu. He explained Waygu’s Japanese origins, how it’s now available in places such as Australia and the USA, and even went so far as to give a cursory overview of the grading system for this very special meat. If you choose to explore the website for One Ten Craft Meatery, you may discover that they have “One Ten Commandments” and “One Ten Values” listed for public consumption. The ethics and values of this restaurant are present with each pulsating beat of the experience of dining there. Brown is clearly an owner and chef who leads by example. His grace, creativity, and intellect are evidenced in both his culinary creations and his interactions with customers; who he treats more like guests or old friends. 

My meal was, to put it lightly, impressive. I would categorize the interior design of the restaurant as eclectic-casual. The food, on the other hand, was decidedly more high-brow; but presented in a very approachable manner. Nothing about this menu should scare you–not even the wine list. To go with my meal, I ordered the ‘20 Ramsay Cabernet Sauvignon. There are few things I enjoy more than a big red wine paired thoughtfully with a nice steak. The Ramsay Cab was delightful. Big and full bodied, dry, with medium acid. Sometimes, I find Cabernet Sauvignon can be abrasively tannic. This wine is not that. I found the tannins to be surprisingly velvety. Notes of dark fruit with characteristics of oak: like vanilla. I even got some leather, which can be less common in younger wines. It’s the kind of wine that I could have easily enjoyed several glasses of, but these days I try to be on my best behavior and stick to just one glass with dinner. I will likely seek out this wine and buy a bottle to have on hand. I truly enjoyed it that much. 

While I was rudely eavesdropping on Chef Brown’s impromptu Introduction To Wagyu 101 lecture at the next table, an amuse-bouche arrived at my table. As I was not paying close attention to my waiter when he delivered it, nor was I expecting an amuse-bouche as part of this somewhat laid-back dining experience, I missed the detailed description. I could have asked someone what it was, but since at this point I still had no intention of writing a review, it seemed inconsequential. Sometimes it’s okay to go a little hazy on the details and just enjoy eating something. On a large spoon, there was bacon and a bit of Brussels sprout. I think, perhaps, this was atop some honey. I may be wrong. But, this single bite was dazzling. I may be biased, due to my love of Brussels sprouts. Still, it was one of my favorite bites I’ve had in a long time. 

As an appetizer, I tried their “Flight of the Bacon,” which is just a fun name for a bacon board. For $26 you get a generous portion of three types of bacon. However, I paid extra to sample all four available types. My board came with honey whipped goat cheese, house bacon biscuits, jowl bacon, Wagyu beef bacon, applewood smoked bacon, and raspberry chipotle bacon. Choosing a favorite bacon is like choosing a favorite child: I simply won’t do it. I refuse. They are all precious and delicious in their own ways. The Wagyu bacon was amazing, but, come on! Is Wagyu anything ever bad? The jowl bacon was delightfully fatty–like pork belly’s yummy cousin. The applewood smoked bacon is welcome at my breakfast table any day of the week. The raspberry chipotle bacon was the dark horse of the bunch. Hot take: I don’t personally enjoy raspberries, but I wanted to try this bacon anyway. Conclusion: I loved it. The fruity, tart raspberry flavor is subtle and the “chipotle” is more smokey than spicy. If you have the budget and the inclination, I would suggest getting all four bacons if you order the board. I couldn’t possibly tell you which to pass on. They’re all very good. 

Next came my soup. Probably the least impressive part of the meal, but the flavors were still enchanting. Chef Brown was training someone, so together they delivered the soup to my table. They forgot my spoon. Chef Brown apologized and quipped that he had failed at training. As I’ve explained, I’m pretty easygoing, so this sort of little slip-up isn’t the kind of thing that would ever phase me or spoil my dining experience. It was something we were all able to have a little chuckle over. I mention the spoon mishap mostly because Chef Brown’s charm and wit is so entirely disarming that I believe even the most grumpy and fastidious of diners would not be upset with him for serving their soup without any utensil with which to consume it. A spoon was promptly delivered to me and I was able to enjoy my first taste of Asparagus and Lemon Soup. What I most enjoyed about this soup was that the flavor profile changes drastically depending on what combination of ingredients you happen to get in your mouth. It’s a bit of a gamble, as seldom did any two bites taste exactly the same. Some bites with more mushroom tasted very deep and earthy, while bites with bits of asparagus tip were more vegetal, and some bites were bright and acidic from the Meyer lemon. The croutons helped to provide a diversity of texture and aid in the fun game of no two bites being exactly alike. 

For dinner, I had the 10oz Eye of the Ribeye. My steak was served on a large wooden board with carrots, herbed carrot top chimichurri, bone marrow butter, and sweet corn elote mashed potatoes. I struggle with patience. I don’t enjoy when prizes are just outside of my reach. But, for some strange reason, on this particular night I decided to have a bite of carrot before tearing into my perfectly cooked medium-rare steak. I distinctly remember thinking, “When even the carrots are good, you know it’s a good meal.” At One Ten Craft Meatery, the vegetables are not an afterthought. They are not just underutilized supporting players tossed on a plate to flank the star of the show–which is obviously the steak. The charred carrots were perfection. The mashed potatoes, topped with elote style corn, were divine. The chimichurri provided a bright pop of flavor to help cut through an otherwise intensely rich meal. The steak was cooked and seasoned beyond reproach. I ate every single bite. I have no shame. 

Given that this was already a very large meal, I had no intention of getting a dessert. But, then I got a dessert. When the Butterscotch Duck Egg Crème Brulée arrived at my table, I intended to only take a few small bites. I tapped my spoon against the glassy burnt sugar crust; it honestly wasn’t quite as shattering as I like my crème brulée crust to be. However, any possible sins were immediately forgiven as soon as the first spoonful passed between my lips. People often say that duck eggs are richer and creamier than chicken eggs and never has this been more apparent than when they are utilized in a crème brulée. The mouthfeel was like nothing else, all luscious and creamy. The butterscotch flavor was sweet without being saccharine. So, despite my initial plan to behave myself and just have a small taste, I found my dessert had soon vanished and left me with the overwhelming desire to thank the chef and staff for a wonderful experience. I knew, after waiting years to try One Ten Craft Meatery, that the meal would be good: but I truly had no idea just how exceptional it would be. In the past forty-eight hours, they’ve just released a new menu; I am beyond eager to eventually get to try their current offerings. If my summertime experience was an indication of what they are capable of creating, I can only imagine what delectable fancies await on their most recent seasonal menu. One Ten Craft Meatery offers fresh, flavorful, farm-to-table fare in an unpretentious atmosphere where all feel welcome and, while the Wagyu may be in limited supply, there’s never a short supply of kindness.